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Re: Anders, I see you are here so maybe you can help me
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Posted by SWEDECAR [Email] (#112) [Profile/Gallery] (more from SWEDECAR) on Sat, 5 Jun 2004 09:26:39 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Anders, I see you are here so maybe you can help me, Bill h., Sat, 5 Jun 2004 08:28:30
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I assume you now the way to get kick panel down and also remove the sheet metal knee bolster?

After that I remove the three screws holding fuse box in place and I also remove the smaller air duct.

The next procedure IS A BEAR to perform and you have to be VERY careful.

The big upper air duct is only pressed on to the left air vent, but it is on there so tight that you could rip the air vent apart when removing air duct if not careful.

I get my left hand up behind the fuse box to counter hold the air vent in place while wiggling and pushing the air duct toward the front of the car, disconnecting the two.

After that it is a matter of struggle to get the air duct down and out from under the dash board. Be careful not to break the two pedal switches when taking down the air duct.

Now you have free view of the clutch pedal and cable (but NOT free access).

I then use a coat hanger bent to a hook to catch the spring that stops the cable from unhooking from pedal and pull the spring backwards. I also use a bungee cord wrapped around the steering wheel to hold that coat hanger hook and spring away from clutch pedal while working the cable off.

Charge at a Saab shop 1 to 1 1/2 hour. Are you sure you wanna do this?

With the original clutch in there, don't bother with a new cable only but have the whole clutch replaced instead.

Anders

posted by 67.113.87...

SWEDECAR

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