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Post after post talks around the issue but no post I've found yet summarizes the problem, provides clear instructions for the suggested fix, and confirms (describes) the expected results of the "fix"
I am trying to find answers to several questions;
MY CONTEXT Alas, I just bought a '96 SE Turbo Convertible and the clutch doesn't disengage until ~2-3 inches from the floorboards yet has ~6-8 inches of travel. No strange noises, no apparent binding, just a close-to-the-floor clutch dis-engagement point.
Q1 - Is my problem the common self-adjusting clutch cable problem being discussed? - lots of other symptoms that I don't have are discussed as well such as stickiness, noices, etc.
Q2 - Does the "classic" yank fix result in the clutch pedal disengaging the clutch much earlier in the throw? - say 4-5 inches off the floorboards? If not, what is the desired result of the "fix"?
MY ATTEMPTED FIX - I yanked fairly hard on the cable (it's hard to calibrate the reader - how about "no harder then a compasionate person would yank on a misbehaving-but-good dog's leash") but didn't notice the cable "giving" much when I did so. The spring was moving in and out of the rubber grommet such that it felt like it was "free" and not binding (at the time I was thinking this might be the actual problem). This didn't result in any appreciable change in the clutch dis-engagement relative to the floor-boards :-(
Q3 - how hard should I yank on the cable? Other than getting back in the drivers seat and feeling a different dis-engagement point, how can one tell if the cable has been yanked hard enough? Does if "free" up allowing several inches of travel in and out of the rubber grommet? Does it suddenly "give" a few inches? What behavior should a person look for?
FYI - INSTRUCTIONS FOR THOSE WHO NEED HELP GETTING THE FUSE BOX LOOSE AND PULLED ASIDE OUT OF THE WAY
1) remove the lid to the fuse-box - this will make it easier to pull up and forward later.
2) disconnect the wire cable connector underneath the hood-switch on the far drivers side of the box.
3) remove the nut below and behind the hood-switch... careful to get the nut in the back, not the nut in the front which is actually holding something different down, not the fuse box.
4) while prying up the lock-level on the plastic connector on the front side of the fuse box, lift up on the box to get it above the lock-lever catch point.
5) pull up on the rear of the fuse box by the metal tab connected to the firewall behind the hood weather-stripping - this was not apparent to me at first - the plastic connector on the box simply slides up the metal tab until it is free to come forward away from the tab. This required that I "help" the fuse-box lid fasteners forward so as to allow them to move upward past the weather-stripping.
posted by 4.15.124...
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