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Alloy wheels have almost zero spring energy compared to steel wheels. So if bolt loosens slightly on an allow wheel, clamping forces can fall off very quickly. You are correct about lubrication of threaded fasteners etc etc. But for wheel bolts and studs, the recommended torque is for dry threads. This provides for friction to help ensure that the fasteners will not back off. With lubricated fasteners, your low torque might be good for reaching a given bolt tension.
With new alloys, one must retorque after a day or two. The surface where the bolt head or nut sets on the wheel will often be painted. This paint will extrude and fastener preload will drop off quite a bit. Some settling of the machine surface roughness of the wheel at the hub contact interface will also occur, but that is a lesser componet.
So one should not do as you suggest. With greased threads when your vehicle is in tire shop or elsewhere. They will torque for dry threads and the forces will be much higher and then you might get warped hubs and rotors. And with greased threads, and impact wrench will develop much greater forces that one might expect.
Now the anti sieze materials may vary from brand to brand. But I thing that the solids to 'set' under pressure and might develop a grip while in service. And perhaps one could have a light film of these materials on the threads, but leave the bold head to wheel interface dry. But that negates your 'true' torque intent. I do not like to see bolts or studs so dry that they scream and chatter when moved. But you still have the result where you may be making the use of an impact wrench much more dangerous.
So there are two good reasons not to lubricate wheel fasteners. And when you are changing wheels, greased wheel bolts or nuts will attract and hold onto dirt which will get into the threads.
posted by 207.43.195...
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