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Mine was the non-amped version of the stock unit, so I'm afraid I'm not much help if you are seeking to reuse the Saab/h-k amp. I actually had the whole thing done professionally at CarToys, except I had my girlfriend help me out in fab'ing a pad to fit the gap. Lookswise, its tough to integrate unless you know someone with that Martha Stewart touch!
I used to run an aftermarket speaker level amp out of my stock head, but that made for all kinds of noise. Maddening, esp. with the clarity of digital radio and the brightness of the infinity seperates. This is what prompted my purchase of the Pioneer: direct connections between xm and head, and between head and amp! Much better than FM modulation and speaker level amplification.
From my experience, I would absolutely advise against any kind of makeshift connection between signal and amplification. It just not worth the apparent savings. If you are springing for such a serious head unit, I would seriously consider a larger, trunk mounted four channel amp. I like the Alpine I bought, but there is also a really nice Eclipse in the sub $300 range as well that should be good. Also, others will know more than I, but I thought the Saab amps had built in crossovers, making them hard to use with aftermarket speakers or head units.
As far as pitfalls with going aftermarket - the greatest ones are losing the factory steering wheel controls and the auto-dim with light sensor/nightpanel feature. Obviously, the aftermarket layout and feel is not as good as the intuitive and large Saab controls either.
Apparently, PAC is coming out with a Saab compatible S-WIX which should let the factory controls trigger I/R signals to the aftermarket head. Works with all but most Sonys from what I hear. This is a must in the future - the little remotes that come with aftermarket units are utter crap.
On the head unit choice - I've heard good things about the kenwoods. From what you've described, it sounds you'll have high end unit, so you should have enough sound field control to be able to get a decent soundstage. In my opinion, this, rather than accuracy, (as in good home audio) is the key to an enjoyable sound in a tight, dynamic environment like a moving car. In mine, I found it advisable to keep things pretty level, except move the mid-upper to upper mostly to the front, and boost the ultra low frequencies without boosting the merely low frequency. This gives the lower notes presence without booming like some kid's sound-off-ready civic.
A sub would be a nice, but not absolutely necessary addition.
Good luck!
posted by 66.139.225...
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