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1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
1) use a medium grit 1" diameter sanding drum (not a stone) with an electric drill; flex shaft better. Larger sanding drum can create dangerous occilations. Many folks like dremmel tools, but small tools/bits do not provide for well controlled stock removal. You are blending out the 3/16" to 1/4" step reduction out of the casting ID. Blend as high as you can go. Finish with fine grit, then wet dray sand paper under a small flow of water, finish with hot water and detergent. Silicone grease or vaseline on the o-ring, after it is cleaned. TBTC comes off with 2 10mm hex head bolts. Don't forget to install and connect the intake air temp sensor or you will get CEL'd.
2) it is plastic and fabric, all oil soaked. Removal takes force and it typically comes out in pieces. So use whatever pliers and implements of destruction that are at hand.
3) Genuine Saab has the OEM Viggen IC, MP has one that is better than the Viggen IC. But to take advantage of the difference and $$$, you would have to pushing some interesting mods. It is an interesting DIY. But set aside a warm day to get it done. I have not done a price comparo. With the Viggen IC, and perhaps the other one too, you need the new style lower rad hose that provides clearance for the IC hose. I think that you might have that already on a 1999, but worth confirmation. With the Viggen IC, the compressor discharge hose probably needs to have about 1/2" cut off to allow it to fit closer on the turbo to clear an AC hard pipe. Note that the 1999 HOT has the Viggen IC already.
4) MBC requires that you have reduced intake and exhaust restructions. So that $26 MBC will be cheap after you install a $350 - $400 performance exhaust system. And you also need the K&N 33-2663 filter and 3" duct mod. But if you get there, the MBC+A has a few clear advantages over basic MBC. MBC and MBC+A are easly DIY installs. A MBC or MBC+A is a stepping stone to a modified ECU for a few, but as those are so inexpensive, thats not really an issue.
Any increase in boost, requires the supporting actions described above, plus the best premium pump gas that you can get, Mobil 1 [0|5]W40 oil, PureOne PL10241 oil filters, BCPR7ES11 plugs in good condition and clean injectors. An engine that is not in good mechanical condtion should not be boosted. You can't cheap out on the care and feeding. You will need realluy good performance tires to hook up the torque in 2nd gear. You will have to baby 1st gear as the any tires are easily overpowered. The throttle response becomes very non-linear and you will learn new techniques soon enough.
Tackle one step at a time. Intake, exhaust, then boost, and then IC if you feel inspired to take that step. This is all DIY stuff, including the install of the exhaust. (If you have some of this stuff done already... fine, I can't remember.) When you get there, 2nd gear pulls are almost enough to make you wet your pants!
I will not go into brakes and handling mods, but obviously, there is an increase need for balance with these things too. Don't need $$$ brake hardware, just the right pads. The performance tires will add the stop fast. If you do track work, then rotors become an issue, but not for spirited tooling around on the street.
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