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Posted by GregD (more from GregD) on Thu, 13 Oct 2005 09:17:50 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Fuel pump insert line removal question, David Ingram, Tue, 11 Oct 2005 06:21:55
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1) Start by removing the fuel filter. It's full of crap from your dying pump and starting here prevents the possibility of the lines cracking at the end of the banjo barb if whatever strain-relief you use on the filter gets dislodged wrestling the tank in and out.

2) eEuroparts sells the rigid line to replace the piece from the pump to the discharge. The problem is not pressing on the barbs but rather bending it w/o kinking it. It softens to take a new "set" around 325°F and puddles quickly at 350° so that's a tough trick. I found a 1/4" tubing bender breaks the spirit of the line sufficiently to allow the radius needed to be formed at ambient temp. For these barb connections, I immersed 3/4" of the line in 250°F cooking oil briefly-it softens and lubes. The new line is much easier to press on than 15 yo used line (which is what I actually used after ruining the 1 ft length I bought trying to figure how to bend it). I wouldn't fault anyone for just using regular fuel line for this job.

3) The check valve is a piece of cake to do on the bench and on the NG 900s, the line is there for the taking when the filter is disconnected, provided you aren't doing this through a hole hacked on the floor Even if you are, it's easy to remove the segment of line). I split a valve guide (collets work too) to hold the line in a vise with ~1/2" extending. Start the valve in with a few taps with a rubber mallet and expose more line as needed. It taps in at room temp with little effort. The key is holding the line securely and only extending a 1/2" or so initially.

4) Stick a wad of gum, or the like, in the slot above the LH tank strap (where it it attached to the chassis) so you don't find it came out of it's notch in the chassis when you go to fasten it. It cannot be reinserted w/o removing the tank.

5) disconnect the fuel fill and vent lines NOT at the tank but at the next union out leaving the rubber hoses on the tank. They will need to be guided past the axle BUT on reinstall they will hold the tank up freeing your hands to do the connectors, check that the parking brake cable is where it should be and guide the various lines into position. This is a real bonus.

6) Finally remove the Caplug® from the bottom of the new pump before you reassemble the pump cage (ouch!).

posted by 192.154.91...

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