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After you've gotten all the oil pan bolts free, you will need to remove the front four bolts, two per side, that hold the subframe in place. Loosen the rear two but leave them in there as that will be all that holds the subframe from dropping on your head.
But be forewarned: getting the oil pan bolts out can be tricky. They're torx heads, and if anyone's ever mangled them in the past, they can easily strip. I had to chisel my bolts to turn them. Lots of strain on your neck and shoulders, times 18 bolts or so.
If you're lucky, you'll find the torx heads are not stripped, but get yourself a GOOD QUALITY torx bit or you will strip them and your bit. Obviously, replace any and all bad bolts when the oilpan goes back in. I used regular hex headed bolts as they're quite a bit less expensive and hopefully will not present so much trouble should I ever need to work with them again.
Once the bolts are out, you'll need to detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold, remove the front O2 sensor and carefully lower the exhaust as far as you can. No need to disassemble the exhaust beyond this point, but be careful not to put too much stress on the exhaust as you lower it. Then lower that subframe and you'll be able to rotate the oilpan out to remove it. Take your time and be patient.
When you install the oilpan, remember this: four-cylinder cars do not use a gasket. Use Loctite 518 or the EXACT equivalent, available from Napa apparently. Do NOT use another type of sealant because it will leak. Will, not might.
Loctite 518 is an anaerobic sealant which cures in the absence of oxygen. Other sealants do not have this quality and fail over time. When you're ready to install the oilpan, put a bead of this stuff all around, about 1/8" thick, including completely encircling all the bolt holes.
Also, make sure to replace the oil pickup tube o-ring where it enters the oil pan, and if you have an o-ring at the top of the pan for the oil pump, replace that as well.
Good luck!
posted by 155.212.49...
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