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1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Could be the lower rad hose or its clamp. Clamps can always be tightened up. The hose yields under the clamps and the clamping pressure falls off.
If the rad is leaking at the crimps, the crimps can be tightened with vise grips, worth trying as the rad is otherwise scrap.
If there is coolant stains on the block below the pump to block adapter, then the adapter o-rings have age/heat hardened and need to be replaced. This will happen to all I4 engines in time. Usually at higher miles but age is a large factor in your case. The labor is significant and it is advised to replace the pump at this time, as well as the lower rad hose, U hose, coolant flush and new t-stat.
If you R&R the rad, the work for the pump would be easier.
With pump work, one has the belt loosened up and the air filter box removed. This is a good time to renew the belt and upper idler pulley if they are older.
Your pump is probably not the orginal. The 1995 production had a pulley to shaft weld that cracked and that made the pulley tip and the belt came off. Saab did a field campaign to replace these and the replacement pumps had a slash of bright green paint over the weld area on the outside of the pulley to indicate that the vehicle had the revised pump. If that is the case, you might do the work by only replacing the two pump to block adapter o-rings, and small U hose and lower rad hose.
Sugggest that you take the time to tighen all hose clamps. This takes a while to find them all and some are difficult to access. The ones for the two heater hoses at the firewall require access from below the vehicle. These are below the steering rack, above the cat converter. Also remove the rubber drain horn for the heater box and clean it out.
The OEM clamps have large rigid gear drive sections that are too big to allow the clamp to conform to smaller hoses. Once a smaller hose has been removed and replaced, the chances of leaking are very high. You can get new hoses or get smaller gear clamps from the hardware store. Put a pad of folded over duct tape between the clamp and the hose so prevent rubber from extruding thru the sharp drive slots in the clamps band. When you replace hoses, be sure to come back and re-tighen later on. Do not overtighten from the beginning and think that that will do.
Clean hard or waxy deposits form mating surfaces of hose barbs or t-stat housing. Always use a new seal ring when installing or replacing a t-stat. Do not overtighhen the t-stat housing bolts. Once the two parts go metal to metal, tightening further will not increase the load on the seal ring.
Do not put any lubricant on hose barbs or in the clamp to hose interface. That will greatly increase hose extrusion and increase the chances of a hose blowing off.
, Fri, 23 Dec 2005 20:21:47
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