1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
I assume that you're storing the car in a dry garage? Are your winters cold, dry and consistent?
The reason I ask, is if your winters are sort of like ours are now up here in Ottawa, meaning -30 one day and raining a few days later, and/or if the garage is at all damp, a car cover is the least of your worries. When temperatures change, humidity happens and it comes from the ground up in a garage. I've had a clutch plate rust to my flywheel and pressure plate and that cost! Brakes can also be a real pain after storing a car.
For starters, it's best to raise the carr and remove the wheels. This allows for more air circulation and keeps the bottom of the car away from the cold damp ground. Great for the brakes with the wheels removed, air can also circulate around the rotors and pads. Grease the parking brake cables.
Secondly, pull the plugs and squirt some oil in each cylinder, remove the fuel pump fuse and crank a couple of times (not sure with DICs if they need to be grounded?), then replace the plugs. I've never had issues with the fuel but adding some stabilizer a few days before storage probably couldn't hurt, would ensure good mixing and that it enter the entire system.
I usually spray the engine block, intake, trans, etc. with WD-40 which is not a lubricant but a 'Water Displacement'.
Remove the battery and store it indoors off the floor (block of wood under it is good). I've never had to use a trickle charger....they always seemed to be fine with no load over a winter.
If you want to use a car cover, make sure it's one with a breathable fabric such as the 'Evolution 3'. Again, you don't want to trap humidity under there.
Some say change the oil before storage and then again right after...old used oil is corrosive? I've done that but usually ran the car a few miles ebfore dumping the 'new' oil.
Sometimes I wish I didn't have to subject my Viggen to the winter, but then it's so much fun to drive....
Best of luck,
Robert
posted by 67.68.17...
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