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Re: 1995 transmission removal tips and pointers thanks
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Posted by Ron (more from Ron) on Fri, 30 Jan 2009 05:46:20 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: 1995 transmission removal tips and pointers thanks, crawdad [Profile/Gallery] , Thu, 29 Jan 2009 20:32:29
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I made an engine support stand out of 4x4s. I notched the lowest piece to fit into the depression where the fenders are bolted on. Then, one piece on each side as a spacer, then a 50" piece across the top. I used 2 pieces of threaded rod to connect to the engine support brackets and one long piece of threaded rod to connect to a lifting bracket on the top of the transmission. Total cost of the bracket was less than $20 as I already had the 4x4s. I also bought a 800-lb cap. transmission jack from Harbor Freight for $109. It was actually harder to remove the transmission than to reinstall the new one. I took my time - spent a couple hours a day in my garage that was heated to around 65 degrees (10 degrees outside). I would not try to remove/reinstall the transmission with 2 floor jacks as Dmytry does unless you have a couple people helping you. As I removed each assembly, I stored the bolts in ziplock bags. And before I took any rusted nuts/bolts off, I gave them a good shot of PB Blaster. I bought a 2' breaker bar and a set of deep well 6-point sockets to break the subframe loose (and I needed another 2' section of black pipe). On reassembly, I used nevr-seize on the bolts. Make sure that the car is at least 24" off the ground. Mine was only 19" so I had to lift the transmission onto the jack from under the car. Next time I'll know better. I was able to back the rear wheels up on ramps and used safety straps to lock the wheels down so as not to roll forward. I jacked the front up and supported with jack stands and put 2 tire/wheels under each side to be safe. I was lucky to get a low mileage FM55-501 transmission. When it gets warmer, the old transmission is coming apart, because I beleive it's just got a bad bearing or two. Good luck and be safe... Ron

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