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Buddah says clarity attempted, but long post Posted by Wayfarer [Email]  (#479) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Wayfarer) on Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:35:02
In Reply to: Please clarify......Options?, BMcP, Wed, 21 Oct 2009 12:24:50 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
FYI--all the links to my info are near the bottom.
My situation happened about three or four years ago. I had the ABS kicking in more and more frequently and to the point it was getting dangerous. I finally took out the ABS ECU and sent it to BBA and the told me it had a software error and it couldn't be reloaded. (Didn't even charge me) I bought a used one from V&S and installed it and still would kicked in. I actually sent the used one the BBA first for them to check it out first. Figured they saved me dough by not charging me to diagnose my first one.
I then replaced both front ABS sensors to no avail. While replacing the first one I noticed (by braille method) that there was a large gap on the sending ring. Which was the culprit as it turned out.
Check out Dmitry Platonoff's Web site for his great instructions on how to remove/replace the driveshaft/axle. He even lists the tools and sizes you need. I misspoke (miswrote?) about the pickle fork—if you drop the control arm instead you won't need to separate the ball joint and it will make your life easier. *
I didn't think it was too difficult to do. Took me 4 hours or so the first time I did one. Two hours for another one I did on my girlfriend's Honda CRV.
My tips include:
1. for the hub nut make sure to get a deep well socket.
2. use a breaker bar and you might as well get a 3' or 4' black pipe that is wide enough to fit over the breaker bar handle. I had one nut so tight that a pneumatic wrench didn't work but the breaker bar and pipe had it off in no time.
3. You have to turn/rotate the brake rotor/strut& coil assembly to one side as far as it will go to pop the driveshaft out. I can't remember how I got the driveshaft out of the tranny but it was harder getting it back in. I think I tapped it with a hammer using a screwdriver on an edge or something because it is useless to hit the far end of the driveshaft.
4. And definitely drop the control arm to get it off.
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When I didn't have the ABS ECU connected I could still drive the car and the braking was normal. I AM NOT SURE WHAT SO EVER of the long-term ramifications are of not having it connected in terms of the integrity of the brakes. Not being sure is why I fixed it.
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The links:
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=saab_9-3_9-5_abs_module_removal_repair_rebuild
http://www.vandsautodismantlers.com/
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20051013.Saab_NG900_Inner_CV_Boot/
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20050717.Saab_NG900_Outer_CV_Boot/
I found the axle online. The prices were all pretty much the same, less than $100. I think I ended up getting it from Advanced Auto Parts online. Free shipping and then returned to a store to make life easier. Don't mention the cracked ring because in theory they won't refund your core charge because they can't rebuild it.
*Though if you ever have to separate a ball joint get a pickle fork (it looks like a heavy-duty tuning fork). It just needs finesse and if you ruin the ball joint it is cheaper than a real ball joint removal tool. (I'm REAL cheap) Or rent the real tool but why rent when you can own...
, Wed, 21 Oct 2009 09:12:19, Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:35:02 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 22 Oct 2009 05:22:05
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