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You need a 27mm deep socket. First break lose the cam sprocket bolts, but only a bit. Then make sure the crank is on top dead center.
There is a big round hole in the alternator bracket and the tensioner is accessable throught there. The bolt that holds the idler pulley for the belt protrudes into that access chanel just a bit so loosen that bolt so that the socket will fit.
Once the crank is lined up, remove the tensioner in two stages. First the small cap bolt (12mm) that holds the spring and plunger, then remove the body of the tensioner. The 12mm cap will pop out because it is spring loaded so be careful.
Once the tensioner is out you can work with the cam sprockets. Loosen the bolts enough to be able to move the sprockets independent of the camshafts. Make sure there is no slack in the chain on the side without the tensioner. You need all the slack to be between the sprockets or on the tensioner side. It's important that nearly all if not all the slack is not on the front side.
Fenagle the cams and sprockets until you get the 15 rollers and the other cam marks close. The cams may spin a bit by themselves if valve spring tension moves them, but this is ok as long as the crank stays on TDC. You can use an 18mm and 19mm wrench to get the cams where you want them. Once things are aligned and all the slack is gone on the none tensioner side, finger tighten the cam sprocket bolts and reinstall the body of the tensioner. You need to push the ratchet on the tensioner foot and push the foot back into the fully retracted position before you install it. Then reinstall the spring, plunger and cap into the tensioner.
Now put a wrench on the intake cam and pop it towards the tesnioner and the tensioner will take up the slack. You can spin the engine over by hand and recheck the timing at this point. Then tighten the cam sprocket bolt s to 46 footpounds.
Nothing to it.
, Mon, 10 Oct 2011 16:51:50, Mon, 10 Oct 2011 17:21:11, Tue, 11 Oct 2011 14:17:37, Mon, 10 Oct 2011 17:25:21, Mon, 10 Oct 2011 18:44:08
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