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The engine temp switch is in that location, below, with the intake manfold in the way. However, it does thread into the head not the manfold. There is a fault code for the sensor. Try disconnecting it and go for a drive, and you can get the code. Most ECU's will throw a CEL if after a period of running the sensor does not indicate a proper running temperature. Drive without at stat and find that out.
But I cannot see that this sensor would be a cause for hard starting. When the engine is started, it is cold. The sensor has higher resistance when cold, probably 1 or 2 K. When warm it drops to perhaps 1/4 Kohm. I don't see how the sensor would be at fault and indicating a hot engine at the time of start. If it reads cold and does not later indicate hot, then that would not affect starting. A bad temp sensor would alos affect running, not just starting.
I have not looked at the fuel pressure regulator. But if there is a check valve and it does allow for the pressure to leak down, then one should be able to crack open a pressure side fitting and have fuel squirt out, or not, to detect residual pressure in the morning with a cold engine. But the presence of a check valve suggests that there is an accumulator in the system and what would be news to me. (had one on a Volvo 264)
This is what I would do. Turn on the ignition, wait, then crank. If that helps perhaps that is allowing the pump to get pressure before starting to crank. But some have suggested that the ECU is not powering the pump until you crank, so turn on ignition, then give the crank a brief hit only then listen for the pump, (don't know if you can hear it ever), then try to start. If that does seem to work, then that would suggest that fuel pressure at the time of starting is the problem.
Perhaps there is a check valve, integral to the pump would make sense. I somehow expect that this would be an anti-drain back provision, not something that is meant to pressurize the injectors overnite. (Injectors can leak.)
I would stop fussing with it and take it to a dealer, at least the dealer I go to has very good diagnostic experience. You have done all of the basics, so document that and they will not have to pull plugs etc. If they don't see a problem with the fuel pressure or sensors, with higher miles on a DI, knowing what I know today, I would be happy with a new DI and the old one would be in my trunk as a emergency spare. Then if the problem persists, the DI is eliminated as a possibility.
posted by 208.24.179...
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