1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
I had reworked the casting as much as I could, but with its bent, as you know, you can only taper out the ID reduction, but you cannot remove the ID reduction past the bend. In that state I think that one has obtained 90% of the possible benefits of reducing the pressure drop. There will always be a pressure drop from the 90 degree bends etc.
You need to measure the step in the TB and blend out the large end to about 2 or 2.5mm thickness. If yoy were to taper out the large end you would great a big problem. That has to be done very carefully and you have to understand why you are doing it. The 'bowl' can be cleaned up to remove roughness and casting artifacts.
I cut the casting across, just down stream of the bend in the small end. I cut away part of the boss for the sensor. I got a truck rad hose, 2 or 2.25 ID and cut about 1.5" of that for a coupling sleeve. Get a small hack saw with a small thing blade. Leave the exterior where the clamps will rough!! Use a drum sander on a flex shaft. 1.25 or 1.0" sanding drums, medium grit. Do not use a larger drum sander. So not use tiny tools in a dremel etc.
Score the surface of the casting where the coupler will go to allow better hose grip.
Before you start scribe a deep witness mark on the exterior to allow you to clock the bits back to the correct oriention later. This needs to extend past were the coupling will go.
When done and wet sanded and washed etc. Now put some goop glue onto the casting surfaces where the coupling will go. Clean the inside of the hose with some solvent to remove wax and mold release. The goop should be totally dry. Now you can couple the casting back together. I used a corregated strip of stainless steel from a drain water coupling, and its clamps. This added blow off contraint. The goop in the casting will stick very well and provide a good blowoff grip to the coupling hose. The indside of the joint will not match up perfectly, that the nature of a coupled joint. The tighter you make the clamps, the more it will open as the clamping extrudes the hose.
Go to a parts shop and remove the TBTC and get them to let you go through their rad hose collection. You want a tight but not impossible fit.
You might want to install without the goop if you are going to have more than one finishing session. Keep a nut driver in the door pocket incase the joint separates under boost.
This is a lot of work for an small incremental gain.
posted by 207.43.195...
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