[Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Profile/Gallery]
, Fri, 23 Mar 2001 08:26:07
Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
your gasket did not seal. did you follow my suggestions a while back on copper gasket q's? it may have been too late. putting on a copper gasket is a tricky job. As you are no doubt finding out.
#.9) clean block with a single edge razor scraper. for copper gasket to seal it must be very clean and flat. a milled block .002 or so is the best way but a razor scraper does a good job.
#1)how deep was your groove cut? if stainless .041 then you want .011 above the block.
#2)head was milled flat? and checked for leaks etc...
#3) block was flat to .002?
#4) did you anneal the copper gasket yourself to make sure? hang gasket and use a propane torch from bottom in a dark room. work a golfball sized dark red spot from bottom to top. put gasket on a real clean flat surface like a countertop. use a scotchbrite flap disk in a drill to clean it until it sparkles. clean with acetone.
#5) put down a thin tack coat. let dry. I assume you are using the custom spray, looks like metallic silverish...copper coat a no no. if that is what you have then order the sealer from headgasket.com if spg9 is out. copper coat useless...(i too have reworked a copper gasket problem) put on two more light coats to a depth of about 1/32. let setup until firm..i.e fingernail test feels like clay. it is important that it not squeeze out prematurely. mask off the chain and oil return areas first and put a thin coat of permatex grey hi-torque on those areas while gasket is drying. actually permatex grey hi-torque the best one to use overall but far too much work to get an even coat down. it is fine for motorcycles but too much area on a car head. put a layer of ultra grey on block and head in those areas as well. easy does it. it all squeezes out. you are just putting down adhesion layers.
#6) take 2 @1/2 ( i think ..maybe 7/16) coarse thread bolts( i.e carriage bolts from local hw store) with heads cut off and screw into block for guides. the thread is wrong but close enough to hold as locater pins.
#7) carefully put gasket on block and use duct tape or ?? to keep gasket from sliding if bad fit on locater sleeves. ( check b4 you get this far)
#8) tighten bolts to 10 pounds in two steps. let sit for an hour.less if warm out side. torque to 30 pounds in 5 pound increments and let sit overnite. continue torque to settings in 5 pound increments. make last 15 pounds in one pull.
#9) drink a beer
#10) put on quarter twist.
it is VERY important that the head goes down absolutely square to avoid stress and warps as it clamps onto the wires.
sorry to hear of your problems...my first pass lasted 1k miles. my second pass has gone 12k and seems to be very robust. pulled a trailer 1500 miles and over some big hills at full boost and nary a whimper or a leak.
rad sealer afterwards will not help much usually. if it is leaking after assembly it has to be reassembled
my suggestion is to pull it and re clean the living s* out of it. re do your wires and get a new gasket...anneal it your self. annealing is also very important. an improperly annealed gasket will not flow the few thou it needs to conform.
after it is on never loosen and retighten. especially on an o-ringed block, the key is to clamp it square to start with.
, Fri, 23 Mar 2001 08:26:07, Fri, 23 Mar 2001 21:44:46, Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:21:12, Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:59:50, Sat, 24 Mar 2001 02:31:13, Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:25:39, Fri, 23 Mar 2001 08:28:29
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
