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bob, I'll answer withing your text:
1) When you drilled into the intake pipe, did you support it with an additional piece of metal plating or just tap into the pipe itself? The stock pipe isn't very thick and was concerned it might not hold the injector well or seal properly.
>>>I actually tapped a large nut. crazy I know but it worked. Bascially made my own bung. I welded it in place (I'm only a 'greem belt' in welding aluminum;-). the tube is very thin, too thin for it to hold. It won't seal right.
(2) What is wrong with the injectors already in the kit?
>>>>>>>the injector doesn't have a rubber o-ring and a stop. you will have to fit with teflon pipe tape, or better yet, epoxy;-) THe jet is excellent and when I tested it in the car with the jet in my hand, the mist was extremely fine. good atomization, but the aquamist jet is just a better fit. put a bung on tighten the jet down, done.
(3) Is there a filter in line, and if not should one be added?
>>>>>no filter, the pump is very robust. I haven't seen a WI system with a filter, but I guess you could, but it may impede flow? I suppose if you put it immediately downstream of the tank.....wouldn't hurt to try I suppose. My reservoir is spiffy clean, and I use -40C washer fluid, so ther is alcohol in there. You will need to find this fluid where you are in LA or mix distilled with alcohol if you want you windscreen to cleam well. the bug removal washer fluid has not so desirable detergents.
(4) My reservoir is under the right-front fender well, a good distance from the intake area. I presume I would mount the pump near the reservoir and below it, then mount the solenoid around the left fender well. I don't have the instructions at hand, of course, but I assumed the solenoid only electrically activated the pump. Does it do otherwise? Why does it need to be near the injectors?
>> that is a damn good question, it has been a while and my instruction are awol. But I think the pump is relayed (there is a relay) to activate at the prescribed pressure (the pump is off until called for), and I would assume the solenoid is triggered at the same times, and closes off when the pump stops (when the manifold pressure drops) the solenoid needs to be near the injector so the remaining fluid between the solenoid and the injector doesn't drain into the intake. Basically the pump feeds through the solenoid (which is a valve that opens and closes in this case) to the injector.....so there will be a bit of hose that will be after the solenoid to the injector, that is not pressurised. the water injector isn't like a fuel injector, it may still leak. *Very slightly though. Another reason for the solenoid to be close to the injector is that the pressurised side will be close, and the reaction time for the water to get into the intake will be quicker.
(5) You said you installed a 0.9 jet. What is your application like (engine, max boost, etc.)? I have a '95 9K Aero with trick ECU that'll allow >20 psi boost when conditions are favorable, plus a 3" exhaust and K&N internal (stock replacement) filter. What would be the best bet for me?
>>>2.0L porter 2.3 head, T3/T4 turbo at 22psi peak, Volvo Fuel injection that includes 31#injectors, big IC, 3 inch full exhaust, and more. 20 degrees initial timing, aggressive timing curve (~14degrees under full boost!), and more.... I just did what brad said, increase the size of the jet until peformance went DOWN, the back off a size.
>>>>>>>I think some of the aero owners here have used the .9 jet, even 1mm jet. It's definately safe to start at.7mm. I think you can exchange with Brad until you get the right one.
(6) At what boost point did you set your switch? I'm thinking around 7-8 psi., as there are times (hot weather, like now) when detonation sets in at 9-10 psi.
>>>>>>>>>>>....with the crazy timing curve with my msd6albtm, that is on the 'lean' side, I have it set to go at 6psi in the summer heat, higher in the winter.
THe most important thing is to hook everything up BEFORE your drill so you can run the hose outside of the car to A)make sure it works, and B)check hte reaction time ie the actualy psi you see fluid as compared to the PSI you set with the switch. I actually drove around with the hose and jet in my hand and went for a little mountain drive.....even with a real lond hose after the solenoid that fet all the way to the drivers side mirror, the reaction time was fairly good!
steve
posted by 24.64.223...
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