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Response to Steve and Aaron
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Posted by Bob Davis (more from Bob Davis) on Sat, 31 Jul 2004 06:52:05 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: More questions, Bob Davis, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 12:36:19
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> From Steve: I actually tapped a large nut. crazy I know but it worked. Bascially made my own bung. I welded it in place (I'm only a 'greem belt' in welding aluminum;-). the tube is very thin, too thin for it to hold. It won't seal right.

The nut idea seems like a good one, along with a sizeable washer on the inside. I may try to find a used intake tube to experiment on, and since I don't weld I'll have to find a source.

> From Steve: The injector doesn't have a rubber o-ring and a stop. you will have to fit with teflon pipe tape, or better yet, epoxy;-) THe jet is excellent and when I tested it in the car with the jet in my hand, the mist was extremely fine. good atomization, but the aquamist jet is just a better fit. put a bung on tighten the jet down, done.

I'll get the Aquamist type from Brad, as there's no use skimping.

> From Steve: No filter, the pump is very robust. I haven't seen a WI system with a filter, but I guess you could, but it may impede flow? I suppose if you put it immediately downstream of the tank.....wouldn't hurt to try I suppose.

> From Aaron: Yes, you should have a filter between the reservoir and pump, presumably to protect the pump.

I was thinking more in line of debris clogging the jet, but if the Becool system doesn't have one I'll have to rig a small fuel filter in line. Shouldn't be a problem.

> From Steve: 2.0L porter 2.3 head, T3/T4 turbo at 22psi peak, Volvo Fuel injection that includes 31#injectors, big IC, 3 inch full exhaust, and more. 20 degrees initial timing, aggressive timing curve (~14degrees under full boost!), and more.... I just did what brad said, increase the size of the jet until peformance went DOWN, the back off a size. I think some of the aero owners here have used the .9 jet, even 1mm jet. It's definately safe to start at.7mm. I think you can exchange with Brad until you get the right one.

> From Aaron: If you are already achieving 20+ psi in favorable weather, I would start with a smaller jet and work your way up if it's not sufficient. Start with the 0.7. When I was running 20 psi or just a little over, I was using the 1.1 jet. Now I have dropped down to 15-16 psi and I am using the 0.7, albeit I am having it come on sooner (8 psi vs 10).

I actually don't need WI in winter, as I get plenty of boost. Summer is another story, however, as I've been getting only 10 psi lately before detonation sets in and boost is decreased by the ECU. I'll call Brad and ask him where to start with the jet size. How much are these jets anyway?
If reasonable, maybe I should buy several.

> From Steve: With the crazy timing curve with my msd6albtm, that is on the 'lean' side, I have it set to go at 6psi in the summer heat, higher in the winter.

I have no distributor or way of altering the advance curve, and I think I'll need to start early in summer, late in winter as you do. Summer setting of 6 psi sounds about right, maybe even lower. As I said, I may set up a switch in the cockpit to toggle it, as in winter it won't even be needed. Performance is so high in cold weather I fear breaking something in the drive train as it is now. In second gear it'll just sit there and spin the front tires. I'd bet the HP difference is in the order of 40 or more, or at least that's the way it feels.

> From Steve: The most important thing is to hook everything up BEFORE your drill so you can run the hose outside of the car to A)make sure it works, and B)check hte reaction time ie the actualy psi you see fluid as compared to the PSI you set with the switch.

Good idea.


> From Aaron: I would definitely recommend using a lower psi setting than the stock 10. 10 psi for the pump activation is better than nothing, but better on a dyno run than in real world use.

I have two choices, either 1-10 or 4-15 psi. I can't see using <4 and I might want to use 15 in winter, or shut WI off completely, so I suppose the latter would be the best choice, as per Steve's setup.

> From Aaron: On the dyno, you start at low rpm and so the boost/fuel has a chance to build rather slowly, ie 10-20 psi still takes a while. On the open road, you could be cruising at 2600 rpm and nail the throttle, and you will hit full boost very rapidly, and by the time the water has an effect you will already be at 20 psi. Thus, I like the lower setting better. In fact, I may set mine a hair lower. You can actually keep lowering it if you like - with the 0.7 nozzle - until you get some sputtering or bogging at low boost, then you know your water is on too early. It's easy to watch if you hook up an LED in the dash to indicate pump activation, alongside a calibrated boost gauge.

With this car boost comes on very quickly, especially in cool weather, and I see it being set low in summer, high or off in winter. I have a plug on the dash I can insert a switch, so I'll probably install an LED (next to the VDO boost gauge) and the switch.


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