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Here is the write-up of my installation... Posted by Jon [Email]  (#11)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Jon) on Thu, 16 Jun 2005 02:04:03
In Reply to: Brad's Big Blue Ball (aquamist accumulator) mounting, JJ, Thu, 16 Jun 2005 01:09:53 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Stealth installation of the Aquamist Water Injection System 2C in a 1989 Saab SPG
I ordered the Aquamist system 2C from Brad at KCSaab thru the group buy in December 2002, taking advantage of a price break before the price increase. I purchased an accumulator and a spare water filter, in addition to the stock kit. I wanted my installation to be inconspicuous, so I ordered black tubing instead of the usual white tubing. I have attempted to locate the components “out of view”; you may want to install your components in other locations.
I laid out all of the components on a bench. I then started contemplating where to locate each individual piece. I removed the stock washer fluid reservoir from a parts car and removed the pump and the rubber grommet. I checked the fit of the 6mm pump suction tubing in the grommet. The fit was perfect. I measured the hole for the grommet, about 0.60”. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the washer fluid reservoir bracket. I needed to remove the horn in the fender before being able to remove the reservoir. Using a 12mm wrench on the bolt head and a 13mm wrench on the nut, being careful not to drop the spacer, move the horn out of the way.
Now siphon the washer fluid into a suitable container. Lift the washer fluid reservoir enough to access the pump hose and electrical plug. Disconnect both of these before lifting the reservoir, as both lines are too short to completely remove the reservoir with them still connected. I selected the location of the new grommet, about an inch from the bottom, pointing to the front of the car. I drilled a hole and then enlarged it with a “rat tail” file, until it was about 0.60”. I installed the new grommet in the new hole. I cut a piece of 6mm tubing about 15” long and inserted it into the new grommet. I then trial fitted the reservoir back into position, feeding the tubing into the opening under the headlight.
I have a lift in my garage so the next step was easy for me. With the car up on the lift, the pump location was selected. The location was determined by the need for the pump being lower than the reservoir, to ensure a “flooded suction” on the pump, and to make easy access to the inline water filter. I repositioned the wire harness and the positive and negative battery cables up enough to have a clean installation for the water pump, below the right side radiator fan. I made a template for the pump base, marked the holes, drilled the 5mm holes, tapped the M6x1 holes and installed the pump with the supplied bolts.
Cut a piece of 6mm hose about 12” long and connect to the suction of the pump. At this point slide a piece of 5/16” fuel hose about 8” long over the tubing to protect it from where it contacts the body of the car. Slide another piece over the tubing from the reservoir. Trim both pieces of suction tubing “to size” to accommodate the inline water filter. Install the water filter to both pieces of tubing and secure with tie wraps. At this point, lower the car to access the motor compartment from above.
The location of the accumulator (Watts Regulator, 150A, water shock arrestor), the water pressure switch (N/O, normally open) and the low-pressure switch (NAPA p/n 701-1575 low pressure switch) were determined to be installed below the air filter canister snorkel, just to the right of the air filter canister. Remove the snorkel, the air mass meter and the air filter canister. Fabricate a piece of flat stock to mount the pressure switch to the bracket supplied with the accumulator, so that the 4mm tubing can be connected between them. I chose to drill the holes for the flat stock into the bracket for the accumulator at the same spacing as the supplied bracket for the low-pressure switch. After mounting these three components together, including installing a short length of 4mm tubing between the accumulator and the water pressure switch, the assembly needed to be mounted to the body of the car.
Before mounting the assembly, cut the red wire, from the supplied harness for the high-speed solenoid switch, about 8” from the connector. Put a supplied eye connector on each end of the cut wire. Install the eye connectors to the two electrical connections on the high-speed solenoid switch. On the top port of the water pressure switch, connect a 4” long piece of 4mm tubing and connect the high-speed solenoid valve. Plug the electrical harness into the high-speed solenoid valve, tie wrap about 12” of the wiring together at the harness connector.
I fabricated an “L” shaped piece of flat stock to elevate the assembly about an inch and secured the pieces together using aluminum rivets. The rivets are 3/16” diameter and 5/8” grip, the same as used for the rubber seal and SPG panel on the bottom of the doors. The “L” shaped piece was then sheet metal screwed to the square tube frame between the air box and the lower radiator hose, toward the snorkel. I relocated some of the wiring, the positive battery cable to the starter was moved up about an inch, reversing the body clip that held it in place.
Cut a piece of 4mm tubing about 24” long, slide a piece of ¼” fuel hose about 18” long over it. Connect one end to the discharge of the water pump, the other end to the bottom port of the water pressure switch, feeding the tubing above the skid plate.
Remove the stock intercooler, drill a hole on the underside of the discharge, and tap the hole with the included tap. Install a supplied nozzle, and reinstall the intercooler. Cut a piece of 4mm tubing about 16” long, slide an 8” long piece of ¼” fuel hose over it, and connect one end to the high-speed solenoid valve, the other end to the nozzle.
Install a tee (same as in washer tubing connected to the underside of the hood, from a parts car) in a vacuum line from the intake. Connect a length of silicone vacuum tubing from the tee to the high-speed solenoid valve. Reinstall the air filter housing, snorkel and air mass meter.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery before making any electrical connections!
Feed the black and red wire from the high-speed solenoid switch up to the #4 fuel injector, following the wiring from the air mass meter, under the throttle body. I installed a length of 3/8” harness tubing, from a local electrical supply house, over the two wires. Unplug the connectors on the #4 fuel injector and the AIC motor, cut the tie wraps securing the wire harness to the fuel rail, remove the electrical tape from the wire harness at the fuel injectors far enough to access the wiring to the #4 fuel injector. Remove about ½” of insulation from each of the wires to the injector, one wire is blue with a pink stripe; the other is a green wire with a red stripe. Position the red and black wires from the high-speed solenoid switch into the harness, to lay flat. Solder the red wire to one exposed wire, the black wire to the other exposed wire. Put electrical tape over the soldered connections. Re-tape the wire harness and plug the connectors back into the AIC motor and the #4 fuel injector.
Raise the car to access the water pump to install the wiring at the pump. Plug the supplied wire harness into the pump. Position the relay to mount to the square tube frame under the turbo. This puts the inline fuse between the water pump and the relay, an accessible location for me, and out of sight. The wiring harness that includes a black, red and violet wire needs to be connected next. Cut the black wire leaving about 12”; install an eye connector, not supplied, and connect it to the main ground bolt near the radiator. Drill a hole for a sheet metal screw and mount the relay to the left side of the square tube support near the battery.
Feed the red and violet wires up toward the positive terminal block on the right fender, following the oxygen sensor wire harness. Install an eye connector on the red wire from the wire harness from the water pump. Connect the red wire to the same bolt in the terminal block as the positive cable from the battery. The violet wire needs to be connected to an ignition “on” power source. I fed the violet wire into the passenger compartment thru the bundle of wires between the door hinge and the power steering reservoir. I connected the wire to the ignition source wire for the stereo.
Feed the gray and black wires from the water pump harness to the water pressure switch, following the same path as the pump discharge tubing. Install the supplied female blade connectors on each of the wires and connect to the water pressure switch.
Re-install the bracket for the washer fluid reservoir. Re-install the horn. Add enough methanol based washer fluid to the reservoir to check for leaks. Finish filling the reservoir after determining there are no leaks. Install the supplied fuse in the inline fuse holder. Reconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
JJ, the only thing that I would like to add is that I remounted the pump on a piece of 1/4" thick rubber to eliminate the vibration / noise from being mounted solidly.
Jon
jon1..
, Thu, 16 Jun 2005 02:04:03 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 16 Jun 2005 01:57:31, Fri, 17 Jun 2005 09:25:12
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