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Re: Crank seal replacement
Posted by David Prantl (more from David Prantl) on Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:26:00
In Reply to: Crank seal replacement, Jack Brooks, Tue, 21 Sep 1999 10:31:45
Jack,
I got 2 of those: An '86 9000 turbo and an '88 9000S, and it's ALMOST as
easy as it sounds.
They didn't use stainless steel screws to hold the plastic wheel-well liners
to the fender edge until later 9000 models. The early ones have rust-prone
fasteners - which I had to drill out one-by-one on my '86. Very annoying.
The '88 may have the rust-free stuff (fingers crossed!)
The crank pulley bolt is standard thread, and that bugger is TIGHT ! Even
has some thread-locking compound on it I believe. It should be a 30mm. I
took this bolt off an '89 16V 900 (engine out of soon-to-be-wife's car) last
week and had to literally jump up and down on 3 feet worth of breaker bar
(while making sure the engine/trans didn't roll over on the floor!). The
2-foot craftsman 1/2'-drive flex-handle didn't even come close.
I believe the Townsend trick is to place the breaker-bar/socket on the bolt,
and then crank the engine, and let the starter loosen the bolt for you.
Engine rotates clockwise. Tom/Ywan says it works every time.
Most of the bolts holding the oil pump cover to the timing cover are 10mm,
with one or two 12mm thrown in.
Here's what you need to get:
oil pump o-ring 91 25 824 $2.60
oil pick-up o-ring 79 72 698 $0.27
front crank seal 91 73 576OE $12.50
(Copied from my most recent Townsend order).
It is a good idea to carefully inspect the crank pulley. Don't damage the
crank position sensor - it's like $200+ bucks (I checked). Look carefully
at the front motor mount. If it's oozing nasty black chunks of grease, it's
shot. You can still drive the car with a dead front mount, but the upper
mounts will take more stress and their rubber 'donuts' will get chewed up
rather quickly. I suppose you could eventually get excessive engine motion,
but it's a pretty fail-safe setup. Townsend (again!) has OEM replacement
hydraulic mounts for half the dealer price (about $75). The front mount on
my '86 was split into 2 pieces (center bolt with a chunk of rubber, and the
rest of the mount). The Townsend site has a tip on how to prolong mount
life by using a piece of A/C hose in the limiting bracket. It's a good
idea, and it works (so far) !
Best regards,
David Prantl
david_prantlno39sdcx6spamx782hotmail.com
'84 900S, 210kMi, RIP
'86 9000T, 172kMi
'88 9000S, 135kMi
'89 900, 115kMi
'68 97 Sonett V4, 76kMi, #000467
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Posts in this Thread:
- Crank seal replacement, Jack Brooks, Tue, 21 Sep 1999 10:31:45
- Re: Crank seal replacement, Ywan Mason, Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:35:34
- RE: Crank seal replacement, David Prantl, Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:42:33
- Re: Crank seal replacement, David Prantl, Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:26:00
- RE: Crank seal replacement, Sid Jacobson, Tue, 21 Sep 1999 13:42:10
- Re: Crank seal replacement, Anthony Alexander, Tue, 21 Sep 1999 11:17:18
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