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Re: Crank seal replacement
Posted by Ywan Mason (more from Ywan Mason) on Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:35:34
In Reply to: Crank seal replacement, Jack Brooks, Tue, 21 Sep 1999 10:31:45
On 9000s, there's not much for the breaker bar to smack against when
using the starter. Unless you have a concrete floor. Unlike a 900 that
we use that technique on, you can easily access a 9000 with an impact
gun. They take the bolt right off. For obvious space reasons, you can't
get an air gun on a 900 crank bolt with the engine in situ. If you want
a way to hold the engine, and have a manual tranny, put it in 5th gear
set the e brake and have someone stand on the brake pedal, It will turn
a bit then stop and hold as you compress the springs in the clutch disk.
Be careful when using the breaker bar and the starter. You can tear up
things, possibly loose a finger if you are in the way. The starter
smacks that breaker bar hard enough to take chunks out of a concrete
floor. It wouldn't even know a finger against the frame was there. ( or
on a 9000, a brake line or other obstacle to its rotation)
900s sometimes require more than the starter to get the bolt loose.
Sometimes a few smacks with the starter turning the breaker bar against
the frame does the trick. Other times, the bolt is on too tight,
corroded or loctited in place. We've even had ones where we had no
choice but to apply heat and then the breaker bar. Haven't found the
9000 bolt a Snap On air gun and 140 psi air pressure can't loosen. Just
don't put them on with that.
The crank bolt is a 30 mm up to 90 MY, After that it is a 27 mm.
Neither of us use the flywheel locking tool. The e brake and pedal are
sufficient to hold the engine on retightening on a manual, several large
screwdrivers held in the flex plate teeth suffice in an auto. Or grip
the crank pulley with a large pair of channel locks and use a file
afterwards with the engine running to remove the burrs the pliers will
raise when you make them bite to hold against the torque wrench. The
special tool works real well if you have one handy. I've seen home made
ones from old flywheels with a hole drilled in them to bolt to the
engine.
Turning the engine backwards in a 16V may actually help you if your
tensioner is stuck between teeth. I've never seen it cause a problem as
long as you use the crank to turn the engine, not a cam. Old 8Vs with he
'bow' type tensioners might suffer from this though. the 'bow'
tensioners were weak anyway and should be replaced with the ratcheting
tensioner and guide. We see a lot of these in betweeners, not enough
slack in the chain to allow the tensioner plunger to ratchet out one
more time, but enough to give a rattle at idle. Turning the engine
backwards throws the slack to the tensioner side guide and usually
allows one of these in between tensioners to extend one more tooth and
end the chain rattle. If in doubt, always at least remove the tensioner
and measure its extension to determine chain wear. I prefer to remove
the valve cover so I can see the gear teeth and chain rollers. Saab says
10 mm from the body of the tensioner to the end of the plunger is the
limit. You need to remove the 12 mm top plug on the tensioner and the
spring and plastic plunger before removing the tensioner body to get a
reading on the extension.
We're yet to do a timing chain in our shop however. When I did the
headgasket on my 86 with 269K miles and the original timing chain, the
gears and chain looked great and the tensioner was extended only 8 mm
from the body. All the years of overfilling to the X mark of MAX on the
dipstick, using Mobil 1 10w30 and a factory filter are doing this one justice.
At this rate, I might need a chain at 500K, we'll check her again around
that mileage and get back with you. ;-)
YMMV
Good Luck,
Ywan
Posts in this Thread:
- Crank seal replacement, Jack Brooks, Tue, 21 Sep 1999 10:31:45
- Re: Crank seal replacement, Ywan Mason, Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:35:34
- RE: Crank seal replacement, David Prantl, Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:42:33
- Re: Crank seal replacement, David Prantl, Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:26:00
- RE: Crank seal replacement, Sid Jacobson, Tue, 21 Sep 1999 13:42:10
- Re: Crank seal replacement, Anthony Alexander, Tue, 21 Sep 1999 11:17:18
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