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Greetings again, still at it. Getting things all cleaned up and ready for assembly, have few looking ahead questions..
Cleaned up block surface and carbon from pistons, everything cleaned up nice after some effort, pistons look new, cylinder walls look nice. Used flat stone and carb cleaner for block surface and cleaned up nice but there are small pitting marks on block surface between oil/water ports and around the cylinders maybe 5MM from edge of cylinder bore holes like where original gasket ring around cylinders compressed. I know some folks use copper gasker spray for headgaskets, but didn't know if there were any pros/cons with this metal head gasket for this motor as it looks like it's coated in black rubber spray material or something ??(Elring HG).. thought if was OK to use copper spray may help with any potential issues from slight block pitting?? was planning on using locktite 518 around #1 cyl. back head bolts and timing chain opening as others and Swedecar recommend, but this and copper spray together may be messy and what to do about area with 518 when using copper spray?
Head is getting cleaned and skimmed this week and will replace valve seals and do quick valve lapping and check for leaks after assembling..
Any tricks to removing/replacing valve seals??
Am also replacing timing chain with split one and new cam sprockets while at it, am I S.O.L and need genuine Saab special tool to press new master link on?? or can I accomplish master link clamping some other way/with other available tool? getting IWIS chain w/masterlink..
I hope to drop pan shortly as next step today (didn't get to it last weekend) for peace of mind at 175K miles for sludge insp and general cleaning of screen and pan.
Any thoughts pro/cons of yanking balancing chain while into this project due to miles on motor and seeing how much my timing chain was stretched (tensioner was maxed) Will it vibrate terrible with this removed? Just would not want it to loose it's cookies in there being all sloppy I'm sure and take out the motor at a later date if snaps..
Should I pop of bearing caps to visualy check for scoring or wear? if look OK would be worth popping in in new bearings due to mileage?
Any thoughts of if should install new oil pump for peace of mind and due to from what I understand better tolerances/design on new pumps? Seems after puling harmonic balancer (will this be PITA??) is easy access to pump? or wait and put all back together and check oil pressure first and do later if needed? oil light did come on when ran low on oil and flickered a bit after filling with oil before I tore it all doewn..??
Also did rear motor mount yesterday while was easy access with head and intake manifold out of the way, other than the back mount bolt was super easy from above with head removed, didn't have to remove anything else other than mount bolts and jack up engine a bit, got it right out, and was in 2 pieces.. toasted.. took pics.. other one went back in easy, after jacked up engine quite bit more for new mount height .. I wasn't going to replace motor mounts at this point, but when found rear was toast and had easy access, foolish not to, then did research and realized that right motor mount metal sleeve is not supposed be to loose and slide up and down on bolt, apparently lost it's fluid?? Next, the left motor mount over tranny also looks squished down amd torgue mount rubber looks fried,, more and more and more $$.. damn thing better run descent after all this!!
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