1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
So, yesterday I was in a pissed-off mood (not saab related) and decided to work on my car to vent. I had just received an AMM I bought off of ebay, so I figured that along with rerunning all lines in silicone and cleaning out part of the engine bay that I'd slap it in. I had always suspected my AMM might be awry, but didn't know for certain (that's why I bought the new one)
Well, I put it in place, reset the computer and fired it up. It jumped to a 12-1300 rpm idle, and would go up to 1500 before sliding back down at about a 15-20 sec cycle. I drove it up and down the block, and it drove Ok, but the idle was still really screwy and it just felt a bit odd. So, this left me wondering which, if either, was good, and if possibly they were both bad, but in different ways.
I figured that I'd try adjusting the idle with resistors on the orange wire, so I got a breadboard at radioshack (highly recommended) so I could try different levels of resistance without soldering, etc. FYI, previously I had been running about 330ohms on my old AMM.
No matter what I did (50-600ohms), it behaved the same... until I took out the resistors completely. Now, it idles steady at about 900-950, returns to idle smoothly when shifted into neutral from highish rpms, and generally drives smoother and faster than it ever has.
On my autometer a/f everything looks fine (fuel pressure w/ trent rrfpr at 2 bar w/ vac disconnected). I get closed loop operation until 4-5k and 15+ lbs of boost). I'll know better once I've driven it more and can get my shamncy-dancy wideband o2 sensor in place (need to get the bung welded on...).
Anyway, I'm happy as I can be, but still left wondering why any resistance screws things up so badly. I'm just using run-of-the-mill RadioShack brand resistors (rated at .5 watts). I don't know much (close to nothing) about electronics, but I can't imagine how I could do this wrong.
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
-Dan
1 happy '90 SPG
posted by 12.4.1...
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