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, Mon, 10 Mar 2003 20:39:44
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> The charging system is going but I'm not sure what it is yet.
Probably the alternator voltage regulator or brushes. $5 for only the brushes, $25-50 for the regulator and brushes - changing it takes 5 min.
> The car shakes very badly when accelerating or holding speed, goes away
> when coasting... could be inner drivers but not sure wich side.
Not sure about that - inner drivers + tripod bearings cost ~$140 per side
according to http://www.thesaabsite.com, and they're not terribly difficult to replace on your own.
> Heat only works at one setting (full blast, the first notch)..
> AC works tho (only at full blast tho)..
Either your fan resistors are burned, your heater switch is gone, or you
need to reconnect some wiring behind your dash. $20 at most from a
junkyard for the switch or resisters, plus you might need to spend some time taking your dash apart. Reference past posts/FAQs here or at http://www.townsendimports.com as to exactly how, or buy a shop manual.
> Headliner and pad TOTALLY gone, All i have is left over orange shizz on
> the cieling that looks rotten and keeps falling off, dash is cracked
> horridly badly
Don't worry about that, so's my dash and headliner. You could probably
take out the plastic ceiling panel and glue some snazzy fabric on it.
> windows are dying (go up really slow)...
try fixing your voltage regulator, see if it helps. Also, take the inner
door panels off and oil the mechanism - that helped in my car
> transmission or clutch on its
> way (hard to shift, cant get it in 2nd at times without double
> clutching, reverse gear is about dead as when going fast in reverse, it
> pops itself outta gear)..
Clutch costs about $500 for an independent mechanic to do - cheaper than
most cars because it's conveniently located in front of the engine so the
engine and/or tranny don't have to be pulled. Also, change your
tranny oil and see if that improves shifting. I believe that there's a
modification that can be done without removing the transmission to
fix the reverse-popping problem.
> O2 sensor is bad, resulting in a CE light at times
Just did that on my car. Remove the battery and unscrew it from the
bottom of the exhaust down pipe - it's easier while the engine is hot
IMHO. Ask the parts guy at an auto shop for Bosch #13913 - it's a
Ford Mustang sensor and it costs $40, around 1/3 that of the SAAB part -
you'll have to splice the plugs from your old sensor on, though.
> seat heater at least on driver's side is dead,
Check the fuse, and the wires going from the seat butt pad to the backrest.
Mine were broken and I needed to solder on a slightly longer loop of wire
to fix them. In the worst case, the heater itself is broken - those can
be soldered too.
> shocks might need replacing
$50 or so apiece. Easy to install (remove the wheel and unscrew 2 nuts), since your car doesn't use struts.
> speedometer jumps all over, tripometer stuck and odometer stuck on 91619
> (who knows how high it really is)
Speedometer cable - ~$30. Don't know about the odometer, but it's not important really.
> idles at about 1100 some days, 850 even other days, just cant decide why
Vacuum leak. Check that all of the air hoses under the hood are connected and undamaged.
> in need of a major tune up
not much to do on these cars since the ignition is electronic and they're fuel injected. Spark plugs, oil and a filter will run you $30 tops.
> "2" setting on dome light is shorting, among other things.
either wiring, the switch, or a relay (I'm voting the time-delay relay) Fixing and testing wiring is cheap but time consuming. The relay or switch should cost $5 at a junkyard.
> It's a money pit. I paid $1000 for it in September, it sat for a while, > and since I got my license in January, I've put a little over $750 into > it to keep it alive!
I paid $500 for mine in Nov. 2001 - it's cost me around $2000 since then, which is still cheaper than making car payments, plus, if you're making payments or leasing a car, you'll have to pay for collision insurance which can be pretty expen$ive depending on where you live. The Geo Metro isn't nearly as safe, comfortable, or fast as your SAAB, and, assuming your transmission's good and you do some of the work yourself, it should cost you another $1000 or so - the car should last for quite a while longer. Or, get the SAAB turbo for $3250 - I'm sure you can talk the owner down some - if not, you can always look on EBay or other web sites for other SAABs. As far as tools, you go to college, right? Try to make friends with whoever runs your school's engineering/physics machine shop ... he might offer you advice or let you borrow/use some tools.
- Drew
1989 Saab 900T 117,xxx miles
PS- Don't knock American cars - before the SAAB, I drove a '92 Chevy Caprice wagon - it had 200,000 miles on it and ran perfectly (until I got carjacked in College Park, MD, near DC - but that's another story).
posted by 205.188.20...
, Mon, 10 Mar 2003 11:22:59
, Mon, 10 Mar 2003 18:17:08, Tue, 11 Mar 2003 17:19:50, Mon, 10 Mar 2003 21:14:20, Mon, 10 Mar 2003 20:39:44, Tue, 11 Mar 2003 01:05:53
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