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Trying to get this fixed in the next two hours or so, your help is appreciated!
1986 900 turbo 16 valve.
Quick questions:
1. Can I hook a wire from fuse #7 directly to the D+ alternator terminal, bypassing the dash charge warning light? (thereby supplying battery voltage to the D+ terminal without having to worry about if I have a burned out dash bulb or faulty wiring)
2. Is it necessary to supply this voltage to the D+ side, once the car is running, or is it just for start-up purposes?
Signs and Symptoms:
A few days ago, driving home, charge warning lamp on dash kept coming on for several minutes, then going out, then coming on. Hasn't come on for a full day. Yesterday, with engine running (dash light not on), voltage between battery terminals was 14+ volts.
This morning car started as normal. Then power windows very slow, wipers slow. within 5 minutes car had stopped running. Batter voltage on non-running car is about 11 volts. Dead.
Got a jump from a friend. With my car running now, but not hooked to hers, voltage across battery was about 11.8 volts, but kept reducing to 11.7, then 11.65, then 11.6, etc.
Dash bulb is good, but does not come on when I turn the ignition on. My diagnosis is that there is a loose connection or whatever somewhere going to or from the dash bulb. A loose connection or almost broken wire explains the bulb going on and off over the last days.
The question is, if the connection has now entirely failed, does this explain why my alternator is not charging the battery. Hence my first question about bypassing the dash bulb.
Thanks for your help, trying to get somewhere by tonight, would love it if I could fix myself.
PS. I'm at work now, car is on side of the road. I have the Bently manual with me. Difference between D+ and B+ on back of alternator with car running was OK, but I forgot to check D+ and ground when ignition is on. Plan to do that when I go back to get it, but would love to also have some suggestions from this board as to what else I could do. Thanks!
posted by 216.177.235...
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