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Engine Running Hot -=UPDATE=- V/LONG -- pt1
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Posted by Mark UK (more from Mark UK) on Thu, 14 Apr 2005 10:08:35 Share Post by Email
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Engine running hot update - very long as I have tried to be as explanatory as possible. I've tried pretty much everything I know!

Anyone remembering my previous post can skip to "My suspicions" near the bottom those who didn't then may be of use to read all the way from the top as it with familiarise you with the issue.

Car is a 1992 900 aero LPT manual transmission

Ok, the issue.....

Rad was damaged by a driver reversing in to front of car - no water was leaking so drive it home ( 4 miles of rolling road) , when driving home the engine overheated due to water loss ( probably due to rise in water pressure and still had around 2/3 of the water still it the engine when I stopped the car) total time of over heat was about 2-3 mins. When I got home I put hot water in until it filled the header tank, when adding the water I opened the thermostat bleed valve to allow any air to come out. Ran the car on idle to also water to circulate and until the temp dropped ( 2-3 mins) then left the car for the insurance to come round and view it.

6 months later the insurance decided to write the car off and pay me out ( I was given a hire car for the 6 mothn as full liability was claimed by the other party so the Saab didnt move at all). I bought the car back thinking it's just a rad, grill and a set of lights thats needed and I'll replace the head gasket for piece of mind.

I've done all the above and more and the engine now runs very hot. The gasket had gone between a water feed and cylinder 1, well looked like it had, it was probably about to go if not - I also replaced the timing chain at this point.

When the car idles up to operating temp it will quite happily have a temp of smack on centre on the temp gauge, when I drive the car without much turbo activity it sits smack centre of the gauge. As soon as I put my foot down for over a min or two the temp rises to around 4/5 of the gauge and stays there. Doesn't matter how long I drive for without using the turbo, doing over 40mph to get good air flow through the rad. I can hear the fan going when the temp rises.

Only thing that lowers the temp is if I put the heater on. If I do this it drops with in out 5 - 8 mins to centre of the gauge.

I've replaced the rad again, replaced the thermostat to an 82 degree one, replaced the fan switch to an 82 degree one, replaced the water pump, flushed the cooling system with the best cooling system cleaner I can find ( I've done this 3 times ), replaced the bypass valve ( the plastic thing thats attached to the heater pipes and then to the water pump and so on...)

When I changed the head gasket I didn't get the head skimmed as it seems to be straight, I did the tests recommended on various saab sites. Could a cracked head cause this issue.

I have another rad coming, two new fans and a new temp sender, I can't see these will help but I have to try as it's doing me in.



My suspicions and reasons for counting or discounting them are below ( the car has no other issues at all, idles fine, drives fine, boosts to 0.4 bar and quickly drops to 0.3-0.25. Negative reading on the gauge at idle and no throttle when driving is about 0.3 - 0.4 bar but I think I have a small leak on the rocker cover grommet, I have a new one of these on the way. DOES THIS SOUND NORMAL readings for a 1992 900 aero LPT ?


No or minimal circulation - possible I'm thing this as there very little pressure in the header tank when engine is hot, possibly blocked rad, bad pump(replaced it!), blockage in engine ( flushed with 2 part flush and a stuck a water mains hose up every water pipe I could get to but still possible I suppose) , water leak ( no leaks! )


posted by 82.33.11...

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