1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
congrats! I also have an '86 SPG, love the look of the old bumpers and
the SPG trim together.
I've been heavy into the c900 restoration lately and the following list is what I generally have to put into a car to make it work correctly and dependably. Don't be scared by the long list of stuff, consider these points of discussion! If your car is mechanically sound like the *mint* exterior, hopefully yours won't need all this!
FRONT END REBUILD (prices from eeuro)
ball joints (4 x $13)
upper a-arm bushings (4 x $5.5)
lower a-arm bushings (4 x $5.5)
lower a-arms (2 x $60) (do it now because they break)
front shocks (2 x $50) (only if needed)
front springs...find a Saab handling kit or go aftermarket
WIRING REPAIR (remember 1986 was a BAD year for wiring)
1 - distributor connector
2 - APC connector
3 - radiator fan wiring
TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING
1 - drain and refill trans w/ Redline MTL or Honda MTL or Mobil 1 10w30
2 - if sloppy shifter, new shift ball for shifter ($15)
3 - not really trans, but this affects shifting...you are likely to have between one and three bad motor mounts. Side mounts are fine in hydraulic (2x $40) but the front should be either stock hydraulic ($40) with a mod to restrict upward motion or use a beefier aftermarket performance front MM ($60-100).
COOLING SYSTEM
1 - flush and refill with your choice of coolant & distilled H20
2 - if old coolant looked like mud, continue w/ new radiator, t-stat & water pump
3 - if old coolant looked OK and temp is ok, let it ride...
ENGINE & MECHANICAL
1 - engine oil change, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, check timing
2 - replace oil feeder tubes in cyl head, valve cover gasket ($15) & breather grommet ($1) & nipple ($2) & one-way check valve ($10)
3 - replace intake manifold grommets (3 x $1)
4 - check for oil leaks front & rear, check alt bushings & support arm bushings
5 - replace all engine vac lines w/ silicone. vac test & repair leaky components (distributor capsule, bypass valve, pressure switch for shift-up light, vacuum reservior bottle, fuel pressure regulator, charcoal canister)
6 - clean AMM, AIC valve, and throttle body. Set base idle as on townsend site. If nice idle cannot be achieved, adjust or swap out AMM, check O2 sensor operation.
7 - cruise control is probably broken, but easy to fix...new vac lines to pedal switches and adjust pedal switches as necessary.
8 - bypass overboost switch under dash by connecting 2 white/brown wires over by ECU
9 - if car has full boost already consider yourself very lucky. if base boost, troubleshoot APC system (fuse, APC solenoid, 3x vac lines to turbo, wiring to/from APC box & solenoid & knock sensor, wastegate arm, etc.)
10 - find yourself a pair of the late-model intercooler pipes (thin wall aluminum) because they are cheap & provide noticably better midrange power & throttle response!
OTHER
1 - rear susp bushings & shocks & springs as needed
2 - front brake caliper hardware kit (2 x $10)
3 - check CV boots for tears/rips and repair as necessary
4 - alignment. Even if it drives straight, the factory alignment is really shitty for fun driving (it allows up to +.5 deg positive camber, which is ridiculous). I prefer -1.0 to -1.2 camber, 2.5 castor, zero toe. Tire wear is even and cornering & turn-in is excellent.
OK that's all I got right now. I'd love to see some pictures up on the BB of your new car! Damien
posted by 65.78.13...
, Sat, 8 Oct 2005 22:15:05
, Sun, 9 Oct 2005 03:39:51
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