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Plenty of advice here
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Posted by Saana88 [Email] (#207) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Saana88) on Tue, 8 Nov 2005 16:18:11 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: buying a used SAAB convetible advice please, Owen Shugard, Tue, 8 Nov 2005 10:12:05
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I'd seriously recommend a test drive first; with ebay you can rarely do that and you must really know what you're doing/buying first.
I have a '92 convertible. I can keep up with the maintenance, but I've worked on Saabs for 5-6 years now, unless you count changing the exhaust with my dad when I was thirteen. And the heater valve and a few other things.
1989 and later had larger pinion bearings.
1991 and later had wimpier shift forks.
1992 saw the introduction of the larger rear spoiler, new wheel stylings, and the naturally-aspirated S convertible. Also, the instruments changed and a few colors were added.
I've never had SRS problems; if I do many durable parts are available at junkyards as long as they have some 900s around (that haven't deployed the airbag, obviously).
ABS issues are also rare when maintained, but expensive when not. Pump the brake pedal rapidly a number of times. The accumulator pump should kick on, but the brake fluid and anti-lock lights should NOT illuminate. Pulsating brakes are warped rotors; I can change them easily. Be sure the parking brake works, otherwise cables may be siezed or the rear rotors are warped or the adjuster screws are loose.
Both of my Saab motors (1988 8 valve with nearly 200k, 1992 2.1L 16 valve) run flawlessly. Typical problems here would be smoky or rich startups (air mass meter, pricey but available as a rebuild), idle issues (vacuum leaks, dirty throttle bore, deposits on sliding idle valve), or at-speed stalling (hall sensor or crank position sensor or wiring faults). Aside from that, change the fluids and do the tune-ups and they run efficiently for a long, long time.
Green drool out of the radiator or white, chalky residue on the coolant expansion tank are trouble. The radiator is simple, but when the head gaskets go (after overheating) coolant will vomit out of the expansion tank and leave those deposits.
Ask someone else about turbos.
Steering looseness is often worn ball joints; fairly minor if you do it yourself although rust complicates things. Steering leakage is most likely unsecured lines or a failing rack. Steering leakage coupled with lack of power assist is a sure sign of trouble.
I bought my '92 as a younger, more reliable, fun, project car, worked on it in storage (5 months) and then put it on the road in the spring. Even with that preparatory work, I had to know what was wrong with it and know where to get parts. It is a sad state of affairs, and many other boarders will back me up on this, but dealer-stock parts are often a last resort. Every time I'm there I feel as if I don't matter or the diagrams are vague or the person ahead of me in line is buying an entire car from the parts counter. I also know what I can get from other places.
Have a look at the convertibles on the classified ads on this site (and the sedans and hatches too) to see how much more you pay for the extra-large sunroof, as well as how long the cars last (with good treatment and regular care) as well as where they are prone to break.
Seriously investigate any and all maintenance records. This includes records from someone's private mechanic (if the mechanic won't tell you, walk) and bringing the VIN number (at least the last 8 or 9 digits) into a Saab dealer and having them give you a print-out. Major maintenance, even in the schedule-sparse later years, should be every 30-35k or so. Turbos need oil changes twice as often. Yes, tops and hydraulics are very expensive. So are gearboxes, and any work where a mechanic has to touch it. Fortunately, that's not very often. At the same time, one of those instances is before you buy. If the seller will not let you take the car for a pre-purchase inspection, walk away. As with any car or piece of machinery, they'll only take so much abuse.
Never buy a five-speed that howls or pops out of gear. Severely hesitate if it does not engage easily. The shift linkage will be rubbery, but if you go for a gear you should find it. I avoid the 3-speed automatics like the plague, although others have had more reliable results than me. They certainly can't get 32 miles per gallon.
In my experience, a 10-12-year-old 900 (I know, can't be found) cost around $2200 between 120-140,000 miles. They should not be expensive unless the mileage is uncharacteristically low AND the car is in immaculate condition AND no maintenance issues are present.
If you do decide to buy, you'll probably become a Saabnet-lifer like myself.
Also, browse the members' photo galleries to see what everyone drives, how many miles, what work they do, et cetera. You're liable to see lots of smiles.
There's a recall out for California-emission 1990-1992 900s; chances are if the engine control computer hasn't crashed yet, it never will.
Yes, the convertibles are quite safe. Additional reinforcement is added in critical areas (under rear seat, door sills, windshield ring and substructure) but you hope to never test this out. They're also fun; just don't let that fun turn into careless behavior. I find that driving my convertible reminds me of the risks taken while driving, so I tend to take them less often. The roadholding manners of the car are good enough to ensure additional safety.
Have fun- get back to us with some specifics and don't get too emotional before you buy.
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