1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
you have found the "heater control rod" that connects the "heater control valve", at the firewall of the car, to the circular "heater control" in the dash facia.
Use a flashlight via the radio slot to see the connector on the firewall, it's a little silver thingie a little smaller diameter than a pencil but having a flat side on it. You can also remove the left speaker grill (on top of the dash) to get more light in there. [This is also the access to the dash lights, both illumination and the individual indicators , Oil, charge, etc].
Also to help you find it, open the hood and find the two hoses that go into the firewall (all very near the AC pump), one over the other, these are the in and out hot water on the valve, the valve you are looking for to attach the rod. this gives you the angle (right to left as viewed from the drivers seat) that the rod goes from the control on the facia to the valve on the firewall. Eary on I had my wife stand with a pointer(big screwdriver) to the valve in the engine compartment to help me line it up. Somewhat like having the Pin with Flag on the green just over a rise, you can't see the hole but the flag let's you know the angle from here to there...
Note that the ends of the rod have an articulated plastic connector with a keyed receiver, a flat spot on the otherwise round cross section to receive either the Heater control Valve actuator or the Heater Control on the facia - with a little metal spring in it to help hold on. Some have Orange on one end and Black on the other. I've see the Orange end at the firewall but don't know if it matters one way or another.
Take the rod and put back on the valve at the firewall and turn full counter clockwise ("lefty loosie") which puts it in full cold position. If this is extremely difficult to turn by hand this *might* be a sign of needs a new heater control valve. Try turning full lock to lock several times, but return to full CCW when done. Sometimes when they get crusted up inside (only use antifreeze and distilled water - never tap water!) they won't turn, and the driver may try to force the control which sometimes results in the rod flexing and then coming off at one or both ends. If this is the case you may need to replace the heater control valve too, but you'll need a replacement control valve before starting this.
turn the dash control the same counterclockwise. this aligns the keys for both ends of the rod.
now the hard part. there are four long thin screw that keep the facia in the dash. We will only remove one or two. The right most one and the one to it's left. They are different lengths and are marked but let's have *you* keep them straight, ok? Usually TORX (sometimes called "Star") or rarely phillips. (might be in your tool kit in the trunk) The right most one is under the ashtray.
Pull ashtray out like you would to dump contents. above the top right of the track for the ashtry you should be able to see the torx. It's way up and a jog over. lefty loosie to remove the screw. The screw goes all the way to the top of the facia to screw into the dash (actually all four of them do), about the length of a new pencil with thickness of the last segment of your radio antenna (aka thin!). pull all of the way out. move left to find the next screw and remove it too.
The overview is we are making it possible to pull the facia out, *** just a little (maybe an inch tops) ***, to put the heater control rod back in. take your time and it will happen, this is one of the times you need four very small hands. Fit the end to the Valve at the firewall first, then jockey the facia a little to give clearance to get the control rod on the facia end plugged in.
After you get the rod on, push and hold the dash in below the radio slot, and turn the heater control. you should feel resistance, but it should turn full lock to lock. do a couple of times.
if all is well then put the left most screw back in, you need to push the facia in to be flush at the top just under the dash, the screw should start in without problem, then do the other screw in the ashtray area - this one is a little more difficult to get around all the stuff right there, but it will go. snug both screws in, do not overtighten as the captive nuts are set into the dash.
start the engine and see if you get heat or no heat, as the control is turned. what you are looking for is the pressense of heat. if it is comming out of the wrong vents, that's ok as we'll tackle them next.
pat yourself on the back for a job well done!
let us know how you do and what is next...
Also, a plug for the Bentley manual. If you are going to keep the car, and do some work yourself, it's *the* book to have for the 900's. Available from site sponsers. eEuroparts.com has it for about the best price I've seen, and surface freight is free for orders over $39. so, if your order is under $39 (I think the manual is really close to this), add a set of plugs, or an airfilter, or some other item you *will* need at some point in the future. GREAT pictures and diagrams, very helpful to use when discussing procedures on Saabnet too.
, Thu, 14 Sep 2006 14:15:52
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