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I agree w/Pete & bet the valve timing is seriously off. If it's screwed up badly enough (ie - cams not even in sync.), valves could be opening before the end of a compression stroke & squirting oil into the cylinders won't make any difference.
Have you verified the cams are positioned correctly in relationship to the flywheel? I get the feeling you're not sure. This procedure is fairly straight forward & is outlined in Bentley & Haynes manuals, but I'll describe it anyway. Consulting the Townsend site would be a good idea too.
You should assume the prev. owner botched the job when he put the head back on...personally, since I gather the exh. manifold is still off, I'd just yank it to check things out & start over by the numbers. Barring that - use a variation of the pencil trick (which is so ingeniously simple it should be in every repair manual) to establish #1 piston TDC & verify the '0' on the flywheel is lined up timing mark (nows a good time to mark the line on the clutch cover & '16' on the flywheel w/a paint pen...makes future ignition timing checks/adjustments a whole lot easier), then note the position of the cams...the timing mark on each cam should be lined up w/notches on the bearing caps - if one or both aren't...there's your problem.
After you verify the timing is correct, or have made it correct - turn the engine over by hand (clockwise as seen from the back) at the clutch or crank pulley & see if the intake & exh. valves are opening/closing properly throughout the stroke (hell, get x4 pencils - one for each each cylinder!).
Now re-check the timing marks & do a compression test again.
If you've still got uneven or bad compression, use the technique Chaz described a day or two ago to establish where the pressure is going. With some minor changes, here's basically what he said:
Remove the spark plugs & insert a (sufficiently long) pencil into a cylinder (start wherever you want), then put a 30mm (or similarly heavy) socket on top. Rotate the crankshaft until the pencil & socket indicate the piston is at the very top of it's stroke. Now remove the pencil & thread in an adapter that will connect to an air compressor hose (Lyle makes them...or you may be able to use a detachable hose from a good quality compression tester). Turn on the compressor (don't overdo it! max safe pressure is...?) & note the path of escaping air;
~ out the exhaust = bad/broken/burned exhaust valve(s)
~ out the intake = bad/broken/burned intake valve(s)
~ out the dipstick tube = bad head gasket or rings
~ out the expansion tank = bad head gasket
Neat trick! Good luck :)
posted by 68.99.169...
, Tue, 8 May 2007 20:46:21
, Tue, 8 May 2007 06:41:37, Fri, 11 May 2007 09:01:28, Tue, 8 May 2007 08:51:35
, Tue, 8 May 2007 09:46:14, Tue, 8 May 2007 04:27:16
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