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compressing the air (in a turbo) makes it hot. you need Posted by nicknick [Email]  (#731) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from nicknick) on Tue, 21 Aug 2007 21:50:32
In Reply to: Re: running an intercooler w/o turbo?, Frost, Tue, 21 Aug 2007 21:14:59 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
either a new radiator, thermostat, fan switch, fan, fan belt, water pump, coolant system flush, all of the above.
basic check-from cold start, idle car for a couple of minutes, periodically checking the radiator hose from thermostat to radiator for warming up. it will suddenly start to warm up if the thermostat is opening correctly. depending on the thermostat, this will be at the 82c range, with the needle showing close to halfway (a little under). then, start holding the top of the radiator, over the other side, where the little fan switch wires are, and see when theat starts to feel warm. make sure your hand won't get eaten by the fan if/when it comes on. if the thermostat seemed to be working, then, with a good radiator you should expect that area of radiator to start warming almost immediately. if it is partly blocked (very likely), it will take a while for that top section to warm up. if this is the case, the coolant is basically skipping the entire through-the-radiator process, and running across the bottom, and back to water pump. you can periodically reach down and feel the bottom hose from drivers side (us), to confirm the water pump is actually working. it will be feeling kind of hot now, and the top of the radiator probably is little more than warm. check temp guage-probably a fraction over 1/2 way by now (5-6 minutes??). the fan should come on now. if it doesn't come on until temp is some way over half, this is because either the radiator flow is stopping the area that holds the switch from getting actual hot water, or switch is starting to lose it's grip on reality. if the fan doesn't come on at all, switch is just plain dead...
i, personally, like to use a infra red thermometer to remove the subjective guess work. point it at head (engine, not yours), point it at top hose, point it at top corner of rad, point it at bottom hose, and you can see exactly what is happening, in about 30 seconds flat.
i, also personally, would just buy a rad, thermostat and fan switch right of the bat from site sponser, and replace every hose you can find a listing for. they are all going to go one day, and if you have been putting the system under extra pressure routinely, they will go sooner. also, buy a expansion tank with yellow cap. all this costs about $280 from eeuroparts, which is probably about what you will pay in towing once a hose really gives out on a long journey, assuming you ever felt confident enough to actually drive the thing any distance! also, check water pump for any evidence of leaking from pulley bearing, if there is, you need to change that (the pump, not the bearing).
not suggesting to fix a problem by just replacing a bunch of parts, but if you like the car, these are maintenance items, imho.
good luck
posted by 208.54.1...
, Tue, 21 Aug 2007 20:30:33
, Tue, 21 Aug 2007 22:48:03, Wed, 22 Aug 2007 06:59:02, Wed, 22 Aug 2007 08:58:12, Wed, 22 Aug 2007 10:15:52, Wed, 22 Aug 2007 10:10:46, Wed, 22 Aug 2007 12:02:37, Wed, 22 Aug 2007 14:39:27, Wed, 22 Aug 2007 15:14:19, Wed, 22 Aug 2007 14:15:08, Tue, 21 Aug 2007 21:50:32 <-- Viewing This Message
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