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What color? Posted by Saana88 [Email]  (#207)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Saana88) on Thu, 13 Mar 2008 20:25:41
In Reply to: New 1992 Convertible, SaabDad, Wed, 12 Mar 2008 18:49:50 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Not only the gear oil, but also the rubber connection in the shift linkage. When you do this, get some anaerobic sealant and new gaskets for the transmission (two side covers, one rear main cover, and a rubber ring for the clutch output shaft cap in the primary chain case).
Asking 900 drivers which gear oil they use is the same as restarting an eternal debate. Redline, 10W-30, Amsoil, on and on and on we go. I use the orange Saab synthetic from siteE sponsor number 1. It cured my second gear grinding and fifth gear refusal. It also shifts fine (meaning it is in the right viscosity range) in warm or wintry weather. I've heard recommendations against heavyweight gear oil unless the car never gets below 50 degrees. Heat and age break down transmission lubes before you notice a problem.
For brake fluid, if it's really dark, I recommend against bleeding the clutch. Just suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder with a turkey baster or bulb syringe or fluid extractor. Refill with DOT 4 fluid only (Pentosin, Castrol, et cetera, I steer clear of Valvoline SynPower) from a sealed container. I do not keep brake fluid around for more than a year before disposing of it or using it as a paint stripper on my models.
In the winter, I use the fancy orange washer fluid. In the summer (outside of freezing times) I use a mixture of clean water and P21S washer additive.
Motor oil- I think anything synthetic here is fine. Again, that's an eternal debate. I believe Saabs were shipped from the factories (a very long time ago) using Castrol or other North Sea-sourced motor oils.
If you're going to drive the car in the winter, I now highly recommend adding a block heater when you follow the cooling system overhaul mentioned later. I put one on my '88 four-door and gained about 3 MPG in cold weather. Six months later, the part is paid off and there's less wear on my engine to boot.
Power steering fluid- anything that's compatible with the old-school GM pumps as spelled out in your owner's manual. I've been using the Pentosin greenish hydraulic fluid available from site sponsor #2 (TSS).
Saab fitted an inline power steering fluid filter in the return line. Remove or replace it if it has not already. It's full of gunk by now.
Over the summer, unbolt your ball joints (have a few spare, plated, high-strength bolts standing by) and check the grease in your inner drivers, especially the passenger side. If it starts to go dry, you'll get a vibration at certain speeds on acceleration. If caught early, you can just put new grease in it and be happy. Replace any cracking boots, inner or outer, before they finish cracking.
A full tune, replacing all the fluids is a great place to start. I pulled off the valve cover (use anaerobic sealant on the new gasket, and replace the distributor o-ring seal while you're there) to inspect the chain, cams, and valvetrain. Be prepared to change the upper chain guide fitted inside the valve cover if it has become brittle or noticeably worn.
Add some fuel injector cleaner to a full tank of gas, run as much of that fuel out of the tank as possible (also testing out the low fuel indicator light) and then change the fuel filter. The mounting bolt that holds the filter ring to the rear axle tunnel is a case study for anti-sieze. So are brake rotor set screws (if you use them) and wheel locating pins. Do not tighten these down too much at all, or you'll need a drill bit next time you change your rotors.
Clean the sliding surfaces of the brakes with a wire brush and lubricate them with a brake-compatible grease. Lubricate the parking brake lever pivots with a penetrating silicone spray. With the back end of the car in the air, check for binding parking brake cables and rear calipers. With the front end of the car in the air and the A-arm spacers in place, check the ball joints and tie rod ends for looseness. Groaning from the front can sometimes be cured by adding grease to the sway bar end cap fittings. If your rotors are grooved, chunky, or rust very easily, they are worn beyond their heat-treated hardening and should be replaced. Don't bother trying to turn them down if they warp.
Check the ABS accumulator for leakdown and look for any fluid leaks or stains.
If the cooling system components are still original (single cooling fan operates to cool the engine only, kicks on late when the temperature gauge is at around two-thirds of the scale) you should switch to a cooler thermoswitch and thermostat for the summer. If you do not know how long the coolant has been in there, drain it, flush out the system, use this opportunity to replace the hoses and clamps if necessary, remove the heater bypass valve, and refill with nonrecycled coolant and deionized/distilled water.
Lubricate all four lock cylinders with lock de-icer or a low-temperature-compatible lubricant (here's yet another use for something silicone-based).
If the car actually came with remotes, check into a new Alpine chip set if they have good batteries and still don't work. I really wish I knew how to turn off the stupid chirping noise when you lock or unlock the car.
What else have I done with my '92 SC? Plenty, but this should keep you busy. What color is yours?
, Thu, 13 Mar 2008 20:25:41 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 13 Mar 2008 20:32:26, Fri, 14 Mar 2008 20:10:32
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