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A few tips for those doing a 5-speed conversion Posted by Notnoel [Email]  (#23) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Notnoel) on Wed, 2 Apr 2008 09:53:01
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I'm now about 2/3 of the way through this on my 1990 vert, having pulled my engine last night (I work on the car for only an hour or two a night). I've come up with a couple of short cuts that I'd like to share.
1) You can avoid having to disassemble the steering columns to install the new clutch and brake assembly, by noting that the only real difference between the AT set-up and the Manual set-up is the presence of the clutch pedal and the width of the brake pedal. I cut down the width of the brake pedal using a sawzall, followed by shaping the left side of the pedal using a hand=-held grinder. Then I just bolted up the clutch pedal to the receiving bracket that was already on the assembly, installed an additional cut-off switch for the cruise control, and hooked up the return spring. Total time about a half hour, which sure beats the hell out of fighting my way through all of that wiring and pulling the steering columnqout to fit an entire assembly. I wish I'd have noticed this when I was stripping the parts car - I'd have saved an hout or so there too.
2) Switching out the lock cylinder from the AT gear selector to the manual is another pain in the rear which is easily avoided. The main aluminum housing and reverse lock-out gearing is the same for both gear selectors. I simply disassembled the AT selector, transferred over the manual's selector rods, stick-shift, and reverse switch to that housing -- it took only about 20 minutes. It sure beats fussing with removing the actual lock cylinder.
With this approach, I had all of the interior work done in less than an hour without the risk of loosening a bunch of electrical wires or damaging the lock cylinder trying to get it out of the gear selector housing.
Regarding the AT gear selector cable - don't waste your time trying to dis connect this at the tranny. It is much easier to disconnect it after undoing the three triangular bolts securing the gear selector to the chassis. Since I have no need for the AT or the cable, I used a favorite tool to "disconnect" the AT cable -- bolt cutters. Total time, 2 minutes including rummaging around my garage looking for the bolt cutters. It is pretty easy to disconnect with out destroying the cable, but not as satisfying!
Another thing I found very useful are the little price tags with strings that you can buy for $6 at any Office Depot - they make labeling everything as it is removed exceptionally easy.
I've also found that loosely reattaching the front suspension, putting the wheels back on, and lowering the car off the jack stands makes lifting the engine out of the car much easier than trying to lift it out while the car is still elevated.
Lastly, I'd recommend removing the oil pressure sender before trying to disconnect the houses leading to the oil cooler (turbo cars only; it only takes a minute. With the sender gone, it is a lot easier to get a wrench onto the bolts that tie in the oil cooler lines.
posted by 63.139.1...
, Wed, 2 Apr 2008 09:53:01 <-- Viewing This Message
, Wed, 2 Apr 2008 13:58:35
, Wed, 2 Apr 2008 17:39:31, Wed, 2 Apr 2008 10:31:22, Wed, 2 Apr 2008 12:15:15, Wed, 2 Apr 2008 16:27:23, Wed, 2 Apr 2008 17:56:07
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