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Time for a new master cylinder... Posted by Larry West [Email]  (#1140)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Larry West) on Mon, 29 Mar 2010 05:18:20
In Reply to: clutch-less update, Sky, Sun, 28 Mar 2010 09:23:09 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Most definitely. The fluid is coming through the rear seal, getting everything behind it wet.
Changing it isn't hard.
<<under the hood>>
1: suck out some of the brake fluid from the reservoir (turkey basters work well, but a: don't re-use the brake fluid, and b: don't bast turkeys with that thing any more...) just till the level drops below the little "dam" in the reservoir that separates the clutch part of the res from the brake part.
2: remove the line to the slave from the snout of the MC. Don't worry if you can't immediately get the center tube out, just so long as the threaded nipple comes out fully. Disconnect the fluid feed line from the Brake MC reservoir to the clutch MC.
<<inside the car>>
3: Pull down the cardboard/foam sound insulation piece. (If your car has passive restraints, you'll probably need to remove the knee bolster) Follow the clutch pedal up, and you'll see a steel pin going through a yoke that is attached to the clutch pedal. Remove the tiny cotter pin, and pull the pin out, separating the yoke (part of the MC) from the pedal.
4: follow the yoke and its rod to the firewall, where you'll see the back end of the clutch MC with a rubber cap. There are two nuts there, one on each side of the rod. Unscrew these nuts, and mind any washers.
<<back under the hood>>
5: reach down and work the MC free of its mounting, also minding the clutch line. Once the MC is loose, you can pivot it so you can remove the line.
Installation is the reverse of removal...
Don't bother rebuilding it. Just buy the new one.
Two things to look out for:
1: Depending on the year, the hole in the pedal that the pin goes through to connect the pedal to the MC may be, well, slotted. Soft metal in the pedal, and a hard pin opens up the hole, making for very sloppy clutch operation. If it's really bad, the only solution is changing the pedal. That's just a bolt and a nut away from the above (and maybe a few curses, as you try to get all the tiny bits back in place...)
2: Any system will tend to break at its weakest point... Now that you've fixed the MC, what is the next weakest point? More than likely, the rubber part of the clutch line. If you can afford to, you might want to do that the same time you do the MC. That way, you just bleed it all once. The slaves can go bad, I suppose, but it's far, far less likely than the MC or the line. And, if you follow recommended procedure when replacing the clutch, you install a new slave each time you change the clutch.
That did happen to me. When I bought my 1990 900 from my sister, it needed a new clutch master, so I put one in. A couple months later, the rubber part of the line popped...
_______________________________________ Current: 2002 9-5 Aero Kombi Cosmic Blue 2000 9-5 SE sedan, Imola Red 1990 900S Rose Quartz, Auto Past: 1999 9-5 LPT Combi 1999 9-5 LPT sedan 2002 9-5 Arc 1990 900 5-speed 1986 900 turbo Convertible 1991 9000 turbo 1980 99 GLi 1986 900 turbo 1986 900 S 1991 900 turbo 1984 900 turbo 1976 99 GL
, Mon, 29 Mar 2010 05:18:20 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:30:31
, Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:25:11
, Mon, 29 Mar 2010 09:51:12, Mon, 29 Mar 2010 11:41:31
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