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Re: I agree...attack it from the top Posted by Notnoel [Email]  (#23) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Notnoel) on Tue, 1 Nov 2011 08:56:51
In Reply to: I agree..., James, Mon, 31 Oct 2011 18:55:52 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
You ARE running out of time before winter gets here. My advice:
1) contact your local body shops and locate someone who can do the repair next week if you decide to go that route (body mechanics hate this job and you may end up paying a pretty penny to get it done) - schedule it if you can (tell them you plan to go over the car this weekend and cut the worst of it out so they can give you a better estimate when you come in with it all exposed). I've paid $300-500 for this type of work (last time was patching a whole about 14 x 8 inches that developed behind my drivers seat and wrapped up to the side ("L-shaped" in cross section). Where the hole is strongly impacts the estimate. Get he guy to give you some idea of what you may be in for in cost.
2) This weekend - pull the seats and carpet and take a phillips screwdriver and poke around to assess the extent of the rust, determine if it affects the seat mounts, is in some way structural, or is in an area where the fuel lines run (you want to quickly gauge how much of a PITA this is going to be). Check out the entire floor pan, not just the area you know about now - in for a penny, in for a pound. If the hole is not very large, or associated with the seat supports and the pan is still very rigid, you can get away with doing the whole thing yourself over the weekend (you may need to order some POR-15 and Metal Ready today via express shipping. I've got a fiberglass job up below my clutch pedal that I did 5 years ago that is still in perfect condition). You can search my recent posts for detailed instructions on the way I choose to go about it, if you like. If you fix it, be sure to call and cancel the body shop appointment.
3) You'll pretty much have to get new metal welded in if: it impacts the seat mounts, it's structural (wraps up around he side), or results in the floor being too flexible once the rust is removed for the fiberglass to make and keep a good bond. If so, cut it out until it is good metal and use a hand grinder to strip out as much of the surface rust, pitting etc, that is practical. Yuu wont be able to avoid the pitting. Do this on the top and bottom so that it is ready to weld.
4) take it to the body shop, hold your breath, and be ready to peel off some Benjamins. Just have them do the welding (to keep costs down). Once they are done, use the metal ready, then POR-15 both sides about three coats and allow the final coat to dry at least overnight. Use rubberized undercoating below, and then put your car back together.
Good luck.
, Mon, 31 Oct 2011 16:52:48, Tue, 1 Nov 2011 08:56:51 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 1 Nov 2011 20:03:37
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