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88' 900T abruptly quit while driving into No-Start condition a few weeks ago, AAA-towed home (and by now hitching to work is getting sour). It definitely has a history of crappy Hall wiring connectors, but it's run dependably for nearly two years with its harness plug zip-tied and foil-taped to the crumbling sensor socket on the dizzy, and for the first time wiggling that mass didn't help anything.
Now I'm working my way through Bentley prior to Townsend no-start checklists:
I cannot observe any spark on plugs grounded to the lifting eye near the t-stat, nor do they smell conclusively clean OR gasoline-y one way or another, but an indicator light in one of the injector leads did flash when I cranked...
-Hall sensor has power at the harness plug
-ICU has power at its plug
-cylinder ignition cords test within specced resistances, main coil lead is just a *little* high, but the rotor resistance measures in MEGAOhms rather than 1kOhm, so that'll be replaced AS SOON AS I GET THE %$#@! OFF. I know some of them have been loc-tited on, and thus far my slip-joint pliers are failing to Just Crush it out of the way... so I'd love to hear some successful tactics for that process. I'll probably try drilling little holes in its plastic along one side of the shaft next...
BUT THE HALL SENSOR SIGNAL: Back-probing the appropriate ICU pins while connected and cranking is supposed to yield a varying voltage from <0.3V to >6.0V. My DMM doesn't track that fast enough in real time, but it tells me that cranking produces a max of ~8V, a min of .001V (including prior to crank, so that's probably not representative) and an average of 2-3V. I'd assume these qualify as the Hall sensor working, except that I get the 8V as soon as I turn the ignition on, even without cranking. Is that healthy, or some kind of broken-sensor-whiteout-nonresponse?
I'm doing all this solo, so I'm not sure how I'd watch the meter and turn the crankshaft by hand. And/or I just don't want to try...
SO. HALL SIGNAL=~8V W/ENGINE AT REST: *can* that be functional?
and HOW THE F########## DO _YOU_ GUYS REMOVE A LOC-TITED DIZZY ROTOR? without taking the entire distributor out, please. I don't wanna get into that unless the Hall sensor itself is toast.
TIA. I've missed this place...
posted by 108.95.69...
, Tue, 25 Feb 2014 09:40:14, Thu, 27 Feb 2014 06:40:00
, Wed, 26 Feb 2014 16:44:27
, Mon, 24 Feb 2014 15:34:09
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