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Re: Torque arm bushing replacment Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:51:17
In Reply to: Torque arm bushing replacment, Rob  [Profile/Gallery]
, Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:50:05
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The bushings Most Definately don't just push out easily. I've seen a few tools, most of which consist of combinations of cylinder sleeves, properly sized (very big) washers, and threaded rods. The bushing in the 'dogbone' is relatively easy to push out because you can remove it to the car and bring tools to bear. The bushing on the engine is harder.
I've used both the threaded rod/washer tool, and Dick's good old hacksaw. I ended up using the hacksaw when a bushing went in cocked and jammed. Since you're tossing the bushing anyway, you remove one end of the blade from the saw, thread it through the bushing, reconnect it to the saw, and holding the blade VERY level, saw through the outer aluminum part of the bushing. I ended up making two cuts, about 1/3" apart, and levering out the piece. The remaining part of the bushing presses out easily, but you'll still want a tool with leverage (C-clamp, etc.) Actually, I didn't use a hacksaw - I used a jeweler's saw, which is similar to a coping saw, just with a very fine, sharp blade. There isn't a lot of room there, so you want a saw with very little overhang so you don't have to make 2" strokes on the saw before you hit something.
As to putting the bushings back in, they also require pressing in. And you want them to go in straight. Again, for the the removable torsion arm, it's easy because you can do it on a bench. What I did was remove a few thousandths of an inch from the outside of the bushing. The bushing doesn't have to be an interference press fit. If it slides in and has a thousandths or three of slop, you aren't going to notice that, and it'll be A LOT easier to insert it.
What I did was take a piece of threaded rod, ran it through the center of the bushing, and held it in place with nuts. I stuck the rod into an electric drill, and while holding a piece of coarse sandpaper, then Scotchbrite, then finally 400 grit paper in a GLOVED hand, I smoothed out the surface of the bushing. Dipping the Scotchbrite and sandpaper into water helps cool things and improves cutting. I did this until the bushing would *just* fit into the carrier. I then tossed the bushing into the freezer for a couple of hours - the cold contracts it, and it fits easier. Make sure both the bushing and the carrier (bracket) are clean and smooth - no burrs or lips.
Good luck!
posted by 140.157.4...
, Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:50:05, Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:51:17 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:50:33, Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:54:00, Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:28:31, Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:26:49
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