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... and gapped to 1mm. They were less than 1000 miles old when I installed the ECU. Silicon grease on the DI boots. The DI is now almost two years old, but I change the plugs at every service and gap them properly. I have had slightly heated discussions here with people about the fact that I change them so often. This from people who change their oil every 3000 miles, but wouldn't consider using synthetic...
I have tried the 0.8-0.9mm recommendation in the past, but find that I need at least 1mm to get decent low-down performance. I might even try going up to 1.1mm, which Saab seem to use rather than the 1.0mm written on my car (or on the DI, I can't remember) and in my handbook.
What I'm trying to work out is why my car does not seem to be performing (measured by acceleration times) as well as others with a similar state of tune, by quite a way. It's quick, but not as quick as others.
On a recent trip, I had to use 97 RON fuel (couldn't get Shell Optimax, which claims to be "98+ RON") and I think I noticed the difference in performance. The Maptun ECU boosts to 1.6 bar, and I think I may be seeing lower power due to ignition retard, which would probably be due to knock sensing. It's also quite warm now as UK weather goes, but by no means the warmest we've ever seen.
Another thing I was going to try was a shot of octane booster if I can find one I'm convinced is safe to use. I wouldn't use it all the time, but if I can satisfy myself that it's simply fuel quality that's the problem (if there is a problem), then I'll be happy to carry on with the fuel I can get.
Of course, there is always the possibility that the DI is not up to scratch. Johnny at Maptun did warn me that people often find DI problems when they install an ECU upgrade, due to the higher boost, which makes sense. He said he always warns people because they are inclined to blame the ECU.
As you say, the obvious often gets overlooked.
What bearing does battery voltage sensor condition have on the DI?
posted by 62.253....
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