1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
a gurgling noise occurs because the fluid level in the fluid reservoir gets too low and you end up pushing air through the system rather than hydraulic fluid. I suggest that before you pull off the transmission you try to bleed the system again. You may have success with "bleeding from the bottom" which Saunders in SoCal suggested to me last summer,
"the easiest way I've found to bleed the clutch was to attatch a bottle with a pointed tip (like a gear lube bottle) to a vacuum hose and then to the bleeder nipple thus forcing the fluid from the bottom up and allowing the air to rise out of the system. This has always worked for me dozens of times in a few minutes. "
I didn't understand at first, in more detail:
"When bleeding the system I do it in a crude but effective manner. The biggest hassle with bleeding the system is the hump where the line exits from the master cylinder and starts down to the slave. I disconnect the hose from the master at the top (I'll bet it'll be half empty) AND at the junction where the flex hose meets the metal line from the tranny. Then I take the bleeder nipple from the slave cylinder (yes unscrew it and take it out) and use it to PRIME the first stage of the line. Screw the bleeder nipple into the flex hose and attatch a bottle (old gear lube bottle with a pointed tip) to the nipple with a vacuum hose and squeeze the fluid through the hose until you see the fluid fill the master cylinder with fluid and no bubbles (be sure to wrap the master cylinder area with disposable rags to catch the spilled fluid). While maintaining pressure so as to not let air back in, screw the hose back into the master cylinder (don't torque it yet though becasue you'll remove it again) and the first stage will be primed. Now remove the bleeder nipple form the hose and replace it in the slave cylinder and squeeze the fluid through that line until I see it coming out of the end of the metal line. Reconnect the flex line and the metal line and the lower one will be primed. Lastly, I'll disconnect the master AGAIN and force fuild through once more from the slave end for a bit until I see no air bubbles. Then tighten up and you should have pressure. It all sounds complicated, but is actually easy (especially with a friend helping) and the only way I've been successful (even when trying a pressure bleeder) because of that dreaded hump in the clutch line. "
Other alternative is to build a pressure bleeder out of a garden sprayer from your local hardawre store. I did this and it now goes with me where-ever I drive the 9000.
Nathan
posted by 134.84.2...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
