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Re: 9000 Cutting out intermittant. Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 27 Apr 2004 06:22:43
In Reply to: 9000 Cutting out intermittant., Rob Bedwell, Mon, 26 Apr 2004 20:34:22 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
When it cuts out, does it sputter and die, or just 'switch off'? Does the tach immediately drop to zero, or does it bounce a bit on the way down? When trying to restart (but it's not catching), does the tach needle bounce?
The idea would be to determine if it's fuel or spark. If it just 'switches off', if the tach needle just drops, I'd suspect spark/ignition. If it sputters and dies, if the tach needle struggles on the way down, and bounces when you crank it, then I'd suspect fuel. I would group most Engine control issues with fuel.
It could be the harness, but not likely. 'Newer' cars don't seem to be having the wire disintegration issues of the older 900s. And wire rarely fails in the middle - wires fail where they're already broken - at connections.
The first thing I'd do is to clean up every ground point I could find. That means removing the bolt, and polishing up the chassis metal and connecting lugs. If you have an electrical manual, it'll identify the ground points - go after the points for the fuel pump, engine control unit, and ignition system. If you don't have a manual, let us know - I can check mine when I get a chance.
Since you're replaced just about everything short of the steering wheel and VIN tag, I'm going to guess it's a basic ground problem. A bad ground can play havoc. And resistance goes up with temperature. But it could be even trickier - the extra current load that comes with a cooling fan kicking in 'lifts' a bad ground shared with the ECU, and cooling fans come on when the car is warm, that sort of thing.
Try and isolate between fuel and spark, and clean up those grounds. If you can get it to somewhat reliably screw up in your driveway, you could hard wire the fuel pump on and see if that cleans it up. If so, then it may be an issue with the fuel pump relay or crank sensor. I've actually seen a problem where the issue was the contacts the relay fits into. It was an AC relay, but it would be similar. A thin oxide layer builds up on the relay tangs and the socket connections in the panel. As current goes through, the poor connection gets warm, increasing the resistance, which creates more heat. Finally the resistance is too much, and you don't get enough current to run the fuel pump. The solution is pretty simple - first, polish up the relay tangs (fine sandpaper, I prefer Scotchbrite), and then unplug and plug the relay a dozen or so times - this wiping action cleans the contacts in the relay panel. Just a thought.
posted by 192.249....
1, Tue, 27 Apr 2004 06:22:43 <-- Viewing This Message
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