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1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
There are other products out there that are easily had and are just as good, if not better, than the ones you are searching for and may have a hard time finding.
I have written a few posts on installing the JT, including my tips and experience on the task. Others have done the same. Within these posts, we have recommended what to do, what to use, as well as the opposite (what NOT to do and use).
I have had mine installed now for 2 years, and have not had any problems at all. The only things I will mention that I have noticed (and wished I had done when installing):
Re-attach the block-to-dp bracket>>
will need a bracket custom made and attached to the dp. I have noticed that the turbo gasket (where it meets the manifold) is leaking which I think was caused by the extra weight of the JT pulling down on the turbo.
Shorten pipe that goes over rear axle>>
allows muffler tip to sit back further under the rear bumper.
Wrap garden hose clamp around each rubber hanger>>
reinforces the hanger since the JT is much heavier than stock. I have had 2 of them snap on me, and doing this would have saved me the grief of re-hanging the exhaust.
As for your questions on clamps, I used the same style as Steve, also called stainless steel band clamps. I purchased mine at NAPA (or any better parts' store) for $9 each. You will need 7 of them. These clamps are made of thin stainless steel which wraps around the connection, effectively sealing it. I also used anti-seize lube on the bolts/nuts for easier disassembly later on.
The exhaust acoustic sealant is something I think only I have used on this board. I got this at the same NAPA store. It comes in a large tube, looks like tar, and helps to further seal-out against leaks. It was about $10. It also keeps the connections from rusting to one another for easier disassembly (if needed). You slather it on all connections, inside and out.
The nickel stuff you mentioned I have never heard of. I know some people have used copper grease/lube, but I used Permatex silver anti-seize lube. It is better than copper in the fact that it withstands higher heat (like at the turbo end). Glob on a ton of this stuff at that connection. Upon the initial drive, the lubricating properties will burn off, and you will be left with a nice silver gasket. Actually, the stock system does not use anything at this connection, but since the JT is aftermarket, it is better to use something.
The fastners for the turbo-to-dp studs is a choice you'll have to make. The only reason the nuts loosen up on my system is because I did not re-attach the block-to-dp bracket. This causes the system to move slightly, which loosens those nuts. I have a feeling the same will happen with any fastner that is used. It was recommended to me to have had this bracket re-installed, but I took the lazy-man's approach and figured I would get it done later on. Unfortunately, that came back to bite me in the ... !
Remember that each person will have different issues with their systems. Some have complained about rust (not me), other's have been fine without the bracket re-attached (not me). But definitely following any advice you might have read is something you should consider. It will save you time and money later on.
If you need #'s of the clamps I used, as well as the anti-zeize lube, I can post them tomorrow.
Joe
'98 75K
'93 900TC 128K
posted by 12.111.48...
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