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Sorry about the ACC thing. I was thinking of the newer one. Maybe someone with experience on the older system can advise you.
As for the cooling fan...
Do you have one or two fuses? If two, which one is blowing? (Sorry, but I don't have access to a diagram right now, and I don't trust my memory.)
I would do this. Take the three wires off the thermoswitch. Find a convenient ground point and ground each one. One won't do anything (black). One should be low speed, one should be high speed.
Did both speeds work? Did you blow the fuse? If that much is ok, leave the car idling and watch to see whether the fan goes to low speed and then to high. If it's not hot out it might never need high speed, though. If you know that the low speed works, but it jumps right to high, then you need a new fan switch.
Ok, so what if one of the speeds didn't work when you grounded the wire? Find the relays. There are a lot of ways you could test them depending what you have around. If they are identical, you could just switch them around and see if anything changes. (I don't think they are identical.) If you can pop the covers off the relays you can actually see them work. That's best. Ground the wires at the fan switch and see if the relays snap shut.
If they don't, you could hook up the coil terminals on the relay to the battery and see if the relay closes. There's usually a little diagram on the relay so you can identify the coil wires. You should be able to hear it snap. If you have a meter, check the continuity across the other terminals when the relay is closed. You should have continuity when the relay is energized (closed). If the relay seems to be ok but the fan doesn't come on when you ground the wires at the thermoswitch, you may have a break in the wire between the relay and the fan switch. If the relay seems ok and the wire to the fan switch seems ok, see if there is power feeding the coil of the relay. There should be 12v there whenever the ignition is on.
If all that checks out ok but you are still blowing fuses, then you have some work ahead. If the fan runs for more than few seconds, then it is likely that there is a problem with the fan itself drawing too much current. If the fuse blows very quickly, there's probably a short somewhere. Look for a wire that has lost its insulation and is touching ground or another bare wire.
Finally, if you want to eliminate the fan switch and relays from the equation entirely, you can bypass the relays. Get some short, heavy wire and put suitable terminals on it. You want the terminals to fit the female terminals for the relays. The low speed isn't anything special, but you want some really fat wire for the high speed, and I believe it also has extra wide terminals. Identify which two terminals on each relay is for the fan (not for the relay's coil). Put the wire between those two terminals for the low speed. Everything good? Now add the wire for the high speed. If this runs the fan ok, go back to looking at the control side of things. If this blows the fuse, look at the fan itself and the wires that feed it. If either speed does not work when you do this, check to see there is power coming to the relay socket. With the ignition on, each realy socket should have two wires with 12v. If so, then look at the fan and the wires that go to it.
I hope this makes sense. I really need to look at a diagram to say anything more helpful and less general. Just follow good troubleshooting practice: eliminate one thing at a time, don't assume anything works even if it's brand new, work your way along the chain in order, and, most importantly, don't blow anything up that isn't blown up already. Including yourself.
posted by 130.91.5...
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