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Bolt removal Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Thanks, Ari. That's what..., Noel, Mon, 28 Mar 2005 11:10:07 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Removing the bolts is a bit tight, but not really bad. You don't need to take the alternator out - just tilt it way back. The bottom 'ear' of the alternator fits into a slot - if you can keep that ear into the slot, that's good, because getting it back in can be trouble. I pulled both alternator bols, and just used a bar to pry the alternator away.
It took an interesting combination of sockets and box wrenches (offset wrenches help but probably not required), but the bolts came out just fine. Didn't require mountains of torque - I don't beleive those bolts are in very hard - not a lot of force on them, and I think there are at least three bolts in a pretty small area. A buddy of mine does this routinely, and he hasn't had any problem getting them out. I wouldn't worry about that.
Here's a hint - the bolts are different lengths. Keep track of which one came from where. That will save you time. And some bolts are easier to get from the wheel well, others from above. Really, not that bad.
When you bring the bushing and bracket to the shop to press the old one out/new one in, MAKE SURE they know how the bushing goes in. This is true for the dogbone side, too. The center of the bushing connects to the outer portion of the bushing at two places, 180 degrees apart. On the dogbone, you want those connections pointing towards the sides of the car, not forward and back. With the engine mount bracket, you want the connections pretty much up and down. This gives the bushing the most flex, as the engine motion is forward and back. I guess the bushing would last longer if you mounted the bushings the other way - they would compress less. But they'd transmit more vibration, and killing vibration is the key.
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