1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main 9000 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Cabin Heater Always High Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 7 Mar 2006 09:17:26
In Reply to: Cabin Heater Always High, Tim Hurley, Tue, 7 Mar 2006 07:39:41 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I'm assuming a few things-
I'm assuming you can control the blower motor speed.
I assume that if you set the temp to low, you get heat, the same amount as if you were set to high.
Yes, run the self-test. It has fixed things in the past. However, if it says things are OK, it can be something else.
The heater core is always hot (pretty standard in most cars these days), and temperature is controlled by a mixer flap - it mixes hot air from the heater core with cold outside air. This flap is controlled by a servo. The self-test moves the servo - if it moves to where it should go, it passes the self test. However, if the linkage between the servo and the flap is broken, you'll pass self test. When the linkage breaks, it usually breaks to the hot side in summer, cold side in winter. Murphy's law. You got luck.
If it passes self- test, the next thing to check is the linkage. Open the hood, At the base of the windshield there is a plastic cover, running the full width of the car. Remove it (a few screws; disconnect the washer hose). In the center is the heater box. Sticking out of the right side (facing forward), or the passenger side, US, you'll see a plastic arm. On it there is a stiff wire that runs back into the firewall, right about behind the right side of the ACC system. There is a servo back there, that moves the stiff wire, that moves the arm. First, make sure it isn't broken. Have someone change the heat from HI to LO and back - you should see the wire move back and forth, indicating that the servo is working, and that the stiff wire is attached to the servo in the dash. If it isn't moving and you passed self-test, then pull on the wire. If you can move it, it has fallen off the servo.
A common failure is for the plastic arm on shaft coming out of the heater box to break. Then the flaps inside the box fall to one side or another and stay that way. If the arm has broken near the tip, Saab sells a repair kit (something like Mixer flap arm repair kit). Last time I bought one at the dealer it was $7. It's a splint that fits over the stub of the old arm, and gives you a place to hook the wire to. If the arm has busted off right at the shaft, or the shaft has broken, then the news is bad. You need to replace the flaps. They aren't that expensive, but you need to remove the heater box, which is a lot of labor - it's just one step short of a new heater core. If you do have to replace the flap, replace the heater core, as they leak over time.
Hope this helps.
posted by 65.19.226...
, Tue, 7 Mar 2006 09:17:26 <-- Viewing This Message
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
