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hello again,
I was just trying to say that i think the door indicator light on the dash, and the alarm syptoms are two unrelated problems.
The door lock actuators on 9000's are all the same... they LOOK like a motor, and are operated with the same linkage system, however there is nothing "micro" about them. :) they are big...
they are about 4-5 inches long, an inch wide, and 1 and a half inches high. they have a large plunger on one end, that moves in and out when you lock and unlock the door and a switch inside of it, with three wires coming out of it. power, ground, and singal i believe...
Inside of this acutator unit, there is likage all on it's own, and could be moving inside however not making electrical contact anymore.
The door's lock linkage has a metal bar connecting the door lock pin on the inside the driver door and the key lock mechanism on the outside of the door with the actuator itself...
this door lock linkage may be connected and functional in his case...
...however, the actuator unit itself has an internal problem. The electrical contacts inside of it are not responding the way they should.
I had a central locking problem a few weeks ago, and successfully replaced my non-functioning actuator in my 88 with one from my 90.
My 88 central locking did not work at all. Nothing happened when i turned the key in the driver door lock.
I checked the fuse, fine...
I opened up the door panel, got a multimeter, and tested the actuator circuit in the door for voltage... and it was present.
I pulled the central locking fuse and tested again, and no voltage... so i had the right circuit... i replaced the fuse and tested one more time... yes, it has power again... so... why isnt the central locking working?
I pulled and pushed the door lockpin up and down, and watched as the linkage moved... it was completely and totally moving the door lock actuator's "plunger" in and out, however, there was still no locking happening on the car.
I removed the actuator from the door, and held it in my hand as i pushed the plunger in and out.
If i wiggled it juuuusssttt right... i could hear the power locking motors in the car start to wake up and lock and unlock the doors...
however, much to my disapointment, only ONE of the power motors was responding... the GAS CAP LOCK! :P
every power lock in the car had to be replaced... don't ask me why... if i had to guess it was because the actuator went bad, and all the motors froze up from not being used...
so i pulled a working actuator off my parts car, as well as 3 door motors, and the trunk motor... and replaced them ALL.
Now i have a fully functioning power lock system again...
So... i know from experience that the actuators go bad, as wel as motors.
If his alarm is activated... and his actuator is on the fritz... it'll think the door is being unlocked of course... however i would think that this would disable the alarm...right? as the driver lock disables the alarm i thought. perhaps not on a 95 or later?
i suppose if the door ajar sensor was on the fritz too, then the alarm may think that the door is being opened even though it's shut?
I don't know, but the best thing to do, if you're in doubt of the parts.. is replace them with known, working parts...
actuator and door ajar sensor together... well under $50 used...
the door panel is removed in 10-15 minutes... here is how
two torx screws hidden behind caps down at the bottom of the door, on either side of the map holder...
two torx screws hidden behind rubber plugs on the handle to shut the door with...
two torx screw by the door light on the botom of the door (remove the light)
three torx screws hidden behind the door open lever... remove the power mirror sitch, one screw there... wiggle the frame off the door lever while opening the lever itself to get the frame off, to reveal two more screws...
then...
simply pull up on the entire door panel... it will lift straight up off the door...
there will be foam insulation everywhere...
i've ripped this out of every single door i've ever worked on, and to me it makes no difference in sound.
It doesn't matter anyways, because it's impossible to work around it, it must be removed. perhaps not for this actuator, but definately power windows require removing this foam. if you put it back in wrong you risk messing up the window track.
like i said i notice no increase in road noise without it.
also..
all wires will be zip tied down, cut the the ties and untangle them and you're ready to start replaceing the actuator...
they are held in by two phillips head screws that go through the door frame into the actutor itself.
once the screws are out, carefully remove the actuator from the door, moving it off of the metal hook that attaches it to the door lock pin.
now... with it in your hand, move the actuator plunger up and down and see if the locks respond.
even if they do, it may not respond while it is mounted in the door, this was the case with mine. The plunger didn't travel enough anymore to make contact with the switch inside it while mounted in the door.
so... get a new one, plug it in there, test it, mount it, test it with the key... then if it works... put the panel on, and you're done.
If you have any problems with the alarm still... it's another switch... or the alarm...
narrowing down your options is a good thing... good luck
-gavin
posted by 74.70.10...
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