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Re: tail lights on display at startup is normal..
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Mon, 15 Dec 2008 17:35:46 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: tail lights on display at startup is normal.., Artcarl, Mon, 15 Dec 2008 10:36:39
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As Mr. Bubble points out, in the newer cars, the indication of a brake light on at startup is not only normal, it is intentional. By hitting the brakes, it actuates the brake light switch. If the brake light switch had failed, the rear light icon would not go out. And you would know that your rear brake lights weren't working.

The rear light indication works on lights that are in pairs - left and right. It works by comparing the current flow between the left and right filaments. I'll bet the filament that burned out was the Rear Fog Light. Common on many European cars, one of the left rear bulbs has an additional filament that shows a bright red on the driver's side of the car. This is actuated by the Fog Light switch on the dash, and lights an yellow light on the instrument panel when on. Or should.

When faced with a number of problems, it is best not to assume that they are all caused by the same source. Yes, sometimes that is how it works out, but trying to fit all of the facts to one cause can usually lead you to incorrect conclusions. When things don't work, pick one problem, and systematically trace it down. If it caused numerous problems, you'll find out. But it also keeps you from going down rabbit holes.

The problem with the ignition switch is that the contacts build up oxide and not a little bit of arcing. There might have been a design change in the switch over the years. Or the increase electrical features has added more inductive loads. Inductive loads can cause arcs when the contacts open. Each little arc builds up some carbon, which acts as a resistance. There is a voltage drop across the resistance when current flows. That voltage drop across the resistance causes heat, and the resistance increases, further reducing the current available. Eventually you can't push enough current through the bad contacts to power the system.

I've also seen newer switches actually break internally - I suspect that's a design change.

As noted, you can rebuild the switch. I just replace them, but no downside to trying to fix it.

In the case of this car, you've probably just got a tired ignition switch. The blown bulb is just a blown bulb, and yes, the filament monitor may not be working perfectly - that is close to normal - the filament monitor working properly isn't always a sure thing. There's no reason to assume they're linked - a 12-year-old car is allowed more than one problem at a time.

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