"Nut cracker" if it will reach, then clean threads. - Saab 9000 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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"Nut cracker" if it will reach, then clean threads.
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Thu, 8 Nov 2012 16:26:40 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Question on fuel tank strap replacement, Bill Homer [Profile/Gallery] , Thu, 8 Nov 2012 15:41:02
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I've looked at the threads on these before and felt a cold shudder of dread against the day when I need to replace a strap.

They are invariably covered with rust so heavy they are fatter than the original by quite a bit. It all needs to come off, and the old nut needs to come off.

What I'd do is use a nut cracker device if it will fit in there, to split the old nut. Then oil things liberally and once cracked it should unscrew. Or split it in two places and it will fall off. Instead of a nut cracker you could saw one flat off with a sawzall so the nut is C shaped instead of an O, or use a dremel tool and light cutoff wheels, replacing them as fast as they shatter till you have the nut sliced down one side.

But you have to clean up the threads enough to run a new nut on. (Your idea of leaving stub of old strap on there, and old nut, may be a good one.)

I am blessed with an air compressor, and a right-angle die-grinder type tool that I chuck a Forney brand "knot twist" heavy coarse wire brush into. That, spinning at several thousand RPM, does a pretty good job scouring off heavy rust on things, and that's what I'd use on those threads. Followed by oil, and either run a thread die or at least a new nut on and off a few times to clear the threads off, then never seize on the reinstall.

You can use a Roto-zip type electric tool on 1/4" shank implements but have to make sure it's snugged up tight on the shank, and chucked deeply, and don't run it too fast or it may spin out of balance and bend and ruin the brush and maybe hurt someone. The last Forney brushes I bought were made in Spain and shanks were 6mm, not full 1/4", and this happened to me. I complained, they said they'll have the shanks made to US spec. That was maybe 4 or 5 years ago.

Power drills won't spin the bristles fast enough to do anything on heavy rust.

If, without the strap and nut on it the bolt will somehow unhook and come off the car, your cleanup chore is lots easier. Heat glowing hot with MAPP torch and drop it into oil and the quenching will crumble the rust, making it like iron oxide shortbread. (Keep flame away from oil smoke that will rise off it.) Or, a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it will clean it up well.

posted by 71.173.65...


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