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Tie Rod End Procedure Posted by sam96CS [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Tie Rods and Ball Joints, Phil, Tue, 29 Jan 2013 13:38:45 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I wrote these notes when I did the job:
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Floor jack, jackstands, chocks
torque wrench
measuring tape
19 mm socket
22 mm or 7/8" wrench
18 mm socket or wrench
3/8" ratchet
Balljoint splitter (scissor type recommended)
Vice grips
PB Blaster if anything is stuck.
Hammer
Rag
PROCEDURE
01. Park car on level surface, set handbrake, put chocks behind rear wheels, loosen wheel bolts.
02. Raise car high enough to remove wheels, rest on jackstands and then remove the wheels.
03. Compare the length of the new tie rod end to the old one. If equal then you don't have to adjust for differences in length.
04. Measure and write down the distance between the tie rod end and the and the machined groove located at the inboard section of the tie rod.
05. Loosen the 22 mm locknut that is against the tie rod end. It helps to have 2 wrenches, PB Blaster and a hammer if this nut is stuck.
06. Loosen the locknut where the tie rod end attaches to the hub until the nut is flush with the end of the thread. This prevents the tie rod end from popping up violently when the joint is split. Use a balljoint splitter to separate the joint. Then remove the nut. If the spindle turns with the nut then grip the spindle with a small pair of vice grips..
07. Count the turns as you unscrew the tie rod end and write down the count. If the tie rod turns with the tie rod end, then use vice grips to hold the tie rod still as you turn the tie rod end.
08. Oil or lightly grease the end of the tie rod. Check the angle of the new tie rod end's spindle and adjust as needed so it will drop easily into the hole in the steering knuckle after the tie rod end has been screwed onto the tie rod. Screw on the new tie rod end the same number of turns as counted at step 07. Verify that the distance from the new tie rod end to the machined groove on the tie rod is the same as measured at step 04. Tighten the 22 mm locknut until it is snug against the tie rod end.
09. Fit the new tie rod end's spindle through the hole in the steering knuckle and tighten the locknut to 41 ft. lbs.
10. Repeat steps 04 - 09 for the other side.
11. Install the wheels and tighten wheel bolts until snug.
12. Lower the car and tighten the wheel bolts to 85 ft. lbs.
13. Get the alignment checked because the toe setting could be altered after the job is done. Only the front toe-in can be adjusted on a 9000.
My original tie rod ends were made by TRW. They were stamped "TRW", not "Saab".
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