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Re: timing chain/vibration/mounts Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Wed, 24 Jan 2001 13:29:17
In Reply to: timing chain/vibration/mounts, John, Wed, 24 Jan 2001 13:14:04 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
OK, here goes-
First, see my post below on timing chains. There are a bunch of reasons for a noisier engine, including, 'it just is.' I WOULD NOT replace a timing chain at a relatively young 130K 'just because'. For the $1,000+ for a chain, you should try and keep your fear in check. If you're really worried, have the chain inspected by a mechanic you trust. You can have it inspected for a lot less than a replacement. And if it does need replacement, the inspection removes one of the covers (valve cover) that has to come off anyway.
Next, the overboost problem. Heavy throttle/high load is where you get high boost. You want to check the hose to the wastegate actuator, and the actuator itself. First find the APC (also known as the BPC) solenoid. It's a plastic dohickey (don't you love it when I talk technical) mounted on the driver's side of the radiator. It has three small hoses and an electrical connector. Make sure all the hoses are in good shape AND ATTACHED. Next, follow the hose that goes to the wastegate actuator. It's a metal cylinder mounted by the turbo. Make sure the hose isn't split or cracked. From the wastegate actuator to a lever under the turbo is a thin rod. First, make sure the rod hasn't fallen off the turbo. Next, make sure you can move the rod back and forth along its length. Not a lot, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch, but it should move, like you're compressing a spring.
You can inspect the engine mounts for wear. First, check out the upper torsion bar - it's the 'dogbone' at the top of the engine. If there are large cracks in the rubber, then it should be replaced. Chances are good that if the upper is cracked, so are the lower mounts. Shine a flashlight down the belt end of the engine and check the forward lower mount. If it looks cracked, then it needs to be replaced.
The engine will move around some if the mounts are shot under hard acceleration. But it's also possible that the bolts holding the sub-frame are loose, or that the bushing holding the suspension arms are worn.
My advice is to check things out, get them diagnosed, then replace parts. If the engine stops, don't assume the fuel pump is bad and replace it - check to see if there is gas in the tank (actually done by my brother!) A decent mechanic that knows Saabs should be able to go over the car and tell you if you need new shocks, or new suspension bushings, or engine mounts. If the mechanic doesn't know Saabs, you don't want him/her/it doing the work anyway.
Just my $0.02
, Wed, 24 Jan 2001 13:29:17 <-- Viewing This Message
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