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Flushing fluid
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Tue, 27 Nov 2001 16:48:36 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: draining clutch/brake fluid, WE GOT A BLEEDER!!!, Tue, 27 Nov 2001 16:28:13
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Roughly, the process goes as -
Use a clean turkey baster to suck out as much of the old fluid as you can from the reservoir. Then fill to the top with clean fluid. Find the bleed nipples and CAREFULLY loosen each one then retighten. These nipples just love to stick and get rounded, so use a very good 6 point socket. You only have to open each a turn or so. You do one nipple at a time until the fluid runs clear. Stick a thin rubber hose over the nipple and run the hose into a glass jar.
NEVER let the fluid go too low in the reservoir, or you'll get air into the system. So as the level drops, add more fresh fluid.
There are two methods from here - gravity and pressure. In the gravity method, you open a bleed nipple, press down the brake or clutch pedal (depending on what system you're doing), and let the fluid drain through. This is VERY slow - it takes a while.
In the pressure method, you stick a special cap on the fluid reservoir and pressurize it to about 10 psi. There are a bunch of ways to do this, from special bleeder tools to something as simple as a spare reservoir cap with a inner tube valve stuck on it, and a bicycle pump. You pressurize the system and open the bleed nipple. The stuff doesn't fly out - it still comes out slowly, but it's faster than gravity and I personally think it does a better job. Again, make sure the level doesn't drop too low.

I would do the clutch first, then each wheel in turn - all four. It really doesn't matter what order you do them.

Expect to use about 2 quarts for the brakes, probably another quart for the clutch.



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