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I still have 2 99Ts. One's a daily driver. What a great car.
Just a few comments about your post;
1. All of the "Phillips screws" on 99s are NOT Phillips screws. They're PosiDrive and using a Phillips driver will strip up the heads. Get the right bit (and size) and you'll notice how the bit grips into the screws. You can get the valve cover almost leakless if you use the special rubber covered and wave washers. Also a dab of low strength Locktite helps. The valve cover screws are special because the shank has a unthreaded section near the head which seal around the rubber washer. The heads use a #3 bit. The parts should still be available from Saab. Need p/n's, let me know.
2. The K-Jetronic system is very reliable. I've had cars with over 400K with few problems. Change the fuel filter every so often. If something does go wrong, BillJoe at the corner gas station is the very last place to have this fixed. (I should say that for anything on this car, he's not the guy to go to. If people want their car serviced by a guy who only does Chevys, why didn't they buy a Chevy? ) The Saab shop manual and even the Haynes books cover the system. You'll need a pressure gauge. Check supply and regulated pressures. The Lambda sensor system works well and the only problem I've had was a controller go out of spec. The car would start idling bad after about a minute and then drop into the default pulse timing. Later controllers (...035 ...054 Bosch p/ns) will work as replacements. I wouldn't run the car without the sensor connected (system running in constant default mode) because if the default mixture is set lean, it's lean through the entire range. In normal operation the system enriches the mixture during acceleration as well as leaning it out.
3. Waste gate diaphragm; Still available from Saab last I checked. The system works but is driven by exhaust gas pressure so if you change the back pressure you'll need to readjust. You need a manual that covers this procedure. If your car is not over boosting (the gauge bottoms and the fuel pump cuts out) the diaphragm is OK. Note: You must follow the instructions to the letter when making adjustments otherwise the diaphragm gets torn. You can safely increase the boost pressure to about 10psi without a problem. The original unleaded fuel in 1978 was only something like 78 octane hence the 7psi boost. Adjust up and then back off when you hear any knocking.
4. There's no synchro for reverse. I always just tap 2nd before doing reverse. Later gear boxes have an automatic 2nd gear synchro touch mechanism to make it easier.
5. Suspension bushings require a press but you could try using some threaded rod, larger washers and metal pipe. Larger size deep well 1/2 inch sockets might also work. Be sure to have a wheel alignment done after you're all done.
6. Rust: grind or cut as much off as possible. Treat all surfaces with a phosphoric acid / zinc phosphate solution (Crud Cutter: The Must for Rust or other). Prime with zinc chromate primer (Dupont Variprime or other) and then apply Bondo. I find applying Bondo over raw metal is just asking for future rust. For rotted out areas you can use truss plates from the hardware store. These are galvanized pieces with 1/8 holes perfect for riveting.
7. Tuneability: I've never found the need. The cars I have will bury their speedometers. The only non-stock item is an MSS exhaust system. They also carry some cams to play with but the standard turbo cam seems fine. I heard cams from 2 liter ~1973 D-Jetronic cars is also good. Also note that the B engine turbo cam is unique. All of the later turbo and non-turbo cars use the same cam and the same pistons. I guess to save money.
Have fun and remember to get out of the garage every so often.
posted by 4.159.213...
, Tue, 27 Jul 2004 02:56:04, Wed, 28 Jul 2004 12:23:23, Tue, 27 Jul 2004 15:40:39
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